Weekender XLBS: The Origins Of 4Ground & Cel-Shading Your Minis!
October 16, 2016 by dignity
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Happy Sunday
Happy Sunday!
Happy Sunday!
In this week’s episode of “Warren Mangles some Science” ,,, he’s close:
– Gigantism rather than Giantism… ayway over to some experts via the BBC:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-37622249
I should fit right in!
If Justin took his butternut squash to Asgardia – after a while wouldn’t he be a bit Thor? 😉
Ohh God, that was just perfect LOL 😀
@warzan have you tried the clip on spray gun for the paint cans which are just off/on with the nozzle?
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/welding-metal-work/can-gun-1-spray-can-tool
I work with people who have to put together complex documentation and an ex-colleahe of mine once gave me a perfect way of measuring the comvoluted complexity of it. How any fingers do you need to understand something? Reading it off page 7 as is – zero, Now it’s referring me to another rule on page 23 that I have to read at the same time – which refers me to a definition on page 67… I’m suddenly up to threee fingers to keep my place. Keep adding additional codexes, quick references and you need OctoTrump and his many (small)… Read more »
Litko sells clear acrylic bases in several sizes. I’ve used the 1″ bases and love them. Just make sure you use a new blade when removing the base. The plastic is soft on these board game minis, and removing bases is simple.
http://www.litko.net/categories/Bases-%26-Base-Bottoms/Acrylic-Bases/
@warzan, for Zombicide heroes, leave the bases black. If you use a clear base, all you´re gonna see is the colour of your base sleeve (orange for instance). Also, IMHO, with clear bases, you loose the contrast that makes the models pop.
I’m thinking the black base ‘jars’ a bit – and clear bases have too many downsides for me. What about a light sand texture with a light dry-brush?
For a boardgame like Zombicide I would never use clear bases. First it is a lot of effort (contradicting your approach of having it done quickly) and secondly it makes the miniature much more fragile to handle and for a boardgame this is a bad thing. Moreover, glueing clear bases is a hassle as you either gave to use special glue (like two component one) that often has a long drying time or be very careful with superglue as this will Frist the base resulting in an awful look.
Frist = frost
Awesome show guys. When I saw that picture of the Citadel Guard Archers I was immediately taken back to that picture in The Seige of Goner book. Eitehr you couldn’t help yourself or that’s a very lucky coincidence 🙂
That’s a nice look you chaps have gotten there on the Zombicide:BP minis @warzan . Might have to look into trying that, although it made me chuckle that you’ve flipped the plastic colours on the heroes & zombies 🙂
Happy sunday!
Nice tip for painting those kilo-plastic Kickstarters.
For clear bases you can try Sally 4th website. They can made custom size bses if you want.
http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epages/950003459.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950003459/Categories/Clear_TerraBases
I’ve bought clear bases from Litko in 25 and 30 mm round and 25 mm square for Deadzone, AvP and Dungeon Saga. You have to decide whether you want 1.5 mm or 3 mm thick.
Justin the Ass Guardian? Really?
Best rule set, where you just play and it feels like your actually there fighting on the battlefield. Easily without question…. Bolt Action. Superb. So many water cooler moments. Briliant
When the dwarven zombie apocalypse comes, we’ll all be relying on him! 😉
happy sunday
Happy Sunday!
Great show as always guys and I was so surprised to have my name and comment from last week read out…. Fame at last! 😉
It is a nice look on the Zombiecide minis and I may try this on my Blood Rage minis. But why didn’t someone straighten the swords on the heros models? 😉
Or companies could do with what Mythic Games are doing with Mythic Battles, and do the weapons in hard plastic 🙂
Happy Sunday 🙂
Thanks guys so much for the great response to my LOTR armies on parade board, really pleased to say it won gold yesterday. 😀
@warzan you asked where the castle is from? Well, it is all scratch built from blue foam 😀
Ah ha! Nice discussion on the cell-shading. Perhaps that needs capitalising… Cell-Shading… yeah… Anyway, I’ve been using a lot of brain time to work out what to do with my Dungeon Saga stuff; it’s been sitting around and I’ve not even played one game because it’s not painted. Problem is, there are something like 100-150 minis there and I’m coming to the realisation that I’m never going to get that done in this lifetime, hence will never get to play the game. I have been coming up with painting ideas, but even very basic schemes would take too much time… Read more »
heres a thought. cell shaded flames of war. make them look as if they just fell out of a 1940s newsreel
I would love to see a WWII army in 15 or 28mm with a grey scale look to them. Once I get to my British Bolt Action army I am thinking of doing this and wonder how @johnlyons or @elromanozo wood go about this type of scheme?
@warzan Sally 4th do clear acrylic bases in various sizes
Think that’s where I picked mine up from.
I know that the obvious choice is Litko, but I didn’t fancy the shipping cost at the time.
Great idea and execution with the cell-shading! I supported Black Plague on KS and need a simple way to paint them. I also intend to use the hero minis for frostgrave and my own projects (been tinkering with the idea of creating a brutal dungeon delve 2d scroller inspired by Darkest Dungeon). To that end, I think I will paint the heroes and abominations to tabletop standard and use the dark cell-shade technique on the hordes of zombies. Cell-shading and painting an added light source could be brilliant. If I back the KD:M kickstarter, that might be the way to… Read more »
The best way I have found to remove bases from plastic minis is to use clippers to remove everything around the feet then use a hobby knife with a chisel blade (I know X-Acto sells the blades separately) to carefully slice the bits under the feet. I place each foot sideways on a cutting mat and do a quick chop. It may be necessary to use a file or sand paper to smooth and even the bottoms of the feet so I usually leave a tiny bit of the base on when chopping.
That cell shading idea is ******* genius. They look great and faster than my fastest rate of about 6 minis a week.
Happy Sunday guys, Interesting to see the new painting method and it is something I am going to suggest to my buddy for his Zombieside which he plays with all the family. I came across some images of a Kingdom Death Monster boxset at Gencon that had been painted up as statues which looked lovely although I think the time that had gone into them was a lot as they were a commission. I can only find the images on the guy’s Facebook page now. For those interested scroll down to the 4th Aug. I really like the marbling and… Read more »
“I am not sure with the lore and background of many games if their specialist units and characters are a true reflection of the fluff they are built upon.”
Privateer Press have external playtest groups for WarmaHordes whose sole purpose is to test whether the way a new unit plays matches its fluff. They have other group for testing whether the units are balanced. Seems such an obvious thing to do once you hear it.
That’s very cool. Is it a community built play testing group or one that Privateer Press put together?
PP put it together. I had the chance to hear from one of the PP guys last about how they go about creating and playtesting new units. They do a lot of in-house alpha playtesting, and when that’s done it goes out to their external groups for beta testing, and some of those specifically test for fluff. Not to say they can’t feed back on balance either, but mainly they want to know whether the unit plays the way it’s meant to.
I really like that. I imagine they would only really have been able to set this up once they were well established and had a pool of players interested in being a part of said playgroups. I have found that for new companies it can be difficult getting a good size number of playtesters to volunteer. I imagine there may even be groups out there now who ask to be paid to playtest.
Without a doubt. It’s hard enough for a minis game by a small company to get people to play it regularly, let alone get regular playtesters. I’ve been playtested some in my time and you get to see just why it is many games are unbalanced when they launch their first edition. It’s not because the creators don’t want it to be well-balanced, they just can’t get enough quality playtesting. PP are big enough, and more to the point WarmaHordes is big enough, that they can do it. GW could obviously do it for their main games too. They don’t,… Read more »
Re AP and darkening. I think I used the wrong word. Tinting is probably the word I should have used.
At the end of the show when Warren is saying It’s all about you…you…you to the ass gardian. Is that you,you,you?or ewe,ewe,ewe?.
Why during various discussions about rules do I always come back to two of my favorites: – Infinity: Inclusing “first action move, any AROs? Second action I’m shooting at that part of the move” (allows the pop-out and back) – Malifaux. A wide variety of models but minimal core rules to learn with cards for each model with a handful special rules for each; but with a few exceptions they are easy to understand and apply. Why do these rulesets work so well? >> They use language consistently so you know at which point or period something is applied or… Read more »
I think Sorastro uses clear bases for his Zombicide miniatures(also from Litko i assume). He also stated that they become more fragile. But ik have tot agree with Warren that the clear bases do the board justice.