Hobby VLOG: Astral Knights Space Marines – Part Two
November 28, 2017 by johnlyons
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Is the mini in the pics for the post and as the title screens for the vids an example of the already completed scheme?
Looks like it too me, probably taken after the vlog filming finished….
sadly it looks like the barrels will remain un-drilled ;(
An alternative way of doing the shoulder pads would be be to zenith with the bright silver, then go in with a blue ink on top, but that would work best of you havnt glued them on and could just line them up on a painting stick as you could do the lot with the air brush, which if your anything like me saves you hours, as i tend to get obsessed with painting the perfect shoulder padmainly beacuse i want a flat a surface as possible for decals, you would only have to go in and touch the edges… Read more »
I was about to post same thing about painting shoulder pads Tim,
@nakchak I figured it would be easier to continue our airbrush cleaning issue discussion here than have you going back to the old thread.
I haven’t tried it yet, but I found the following article online for cleaning an airbrush that looks a lot like mine. Its really nice and illustrated well, so I figured I’d share it here. I’ll let you know if it works out.
http://www.airbrushguru.com/deep-clean-gravity-feed-airbrush-with-screw-in-nozzle.html
Update.
For anyone who hasn’t cleaned their airbrush like the article above: DO IT
I removed the nozzel and cleaned the paint channel, and a clump of gunk the size of a space marines fist came out. And I am fairly festitious about cleaning my airbrush. Things appear to be working better again. Will have to clean it like that every week or so.
Awesome result @foehammer888, its amazing how clean vs CLEAN makes the difference :), with practice it becomes second nature to strip down and clean Every week is probably overkill, but i would invest in some airbrush cleaner as it really helps stop the residue building up, UMP and Vallejo are my purpose made cleaners of choice, not the cheapest but in my opinion the best for normal water based acrylics, get into the habit of back flushing the airbrush (put finger or blob of silly putty over the needle cap and release air, forces air back up the channel, which… Read more »
@nakchak that’s the thing… I do everything you mention. I have airbrush cleaner, and I use reverse flushing into the cup. This amount of stuff still built up over time.
a simple colour scheme for speed.
enjoying this immensely, john really is pretty darn good with that airbrush.
I think I enjoy these so much because of the airbrushing plus the fact we see a project start to finish.
the editing touches are also pretty darn good of late
I can’t speak for John but thanks about the editing 😉
@lancorz one day you should do a YTP remix of a vlog/3cu….
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-MxgX3ouvM
SANDCASTLES!!!!!!
I like mixing metallics with various colours to create something a bit different. I’ve recently used a green ink mixed with a silver to paint up some old Rogue Trader Eldar – the old models that still appear to be wearing chainmail under their armour. I just applied the metallic mix to the chainmail and it does provide a more ‘alien’ look but not over powering.
just wondering what kind of flow improver you use
@darkspi its vallejos flow improver
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Improver-Airbrush-Model-Bottle/dp/B00QD780G0
It isnt compable to flow aid (by liquitex) and similar products, as ive never noticed it do much to the flow of the paint, but it does massivly reduce dry tip and generally keep things flowing through the air brush, its very potent stuff too, literally a drop or 2 per paint load (typically 3ml or there abouts of paint and thinner)
thanks for the reply
What is the benefit of doing the initial zenithal highlighting with the white primer over the black if you are going back over with a lighter color as a second zenithal? It seems like you could just get away with the second lighter color only.
Smoother transitions mate 🙂