Hobby VLOG: Astral Knights Space Marines – Part One
November 27, 2017 by johnlyons
For some website features, you will need a FREE account and for some others, you will need to join the Cult of Games.
Or if you have already joined the Cult of Games Log in now
What difference will having a FREE account make?
Setting up a Free account with OnTableTop unlocks a load of additional features and content (see below). You can then get involved with our Tabletop Gaming community, we are very helpful and keen to hear what you have to say. So Join Us Now!
Free Account Includes
- Creating your own project blogs.
- Rating and reviewing games using our innovative system.
- Commenting and ability to upvote.
- Posting in the forums.
- Unlocking of Achivments and collectin hobby xp
- Ability to add places like clubs and stores to our gaming database.
- Follow games, recommend games, use wishlist and mark what games you own.
- You will be able to add friends to your account.
What's the Cult of Games?
Once you have made a free account you can support the community by joing the Cult of Games. Joining the Cult allows you to use even more parts of the site and access to extra content. Check out some of the extra features below.
Cult of Games Membership Includes
- Reduced ads, for a better browsing experience (feature can be turned on or off in your profile).
- Access to The Cult of Games XLBS Sunday Show.
- Extra hobby videos about painting, terrain building etc.
- Exclusive interviews with the best game designers etc.
- Behind the scenes studio VLogs.
- Access to our live stream archives.
- Early access to our event tickets.
- Access to the CoG Greenroom.
- Access to the CoG Chamber of Commerce.
- Access the CoG Bazarr Trading Forum.
- Create and Edit Records for Games, Companies and Professionals.
Supported by (Turn Off)
Supported by (Turn Off)
Supported by (Turn Off)
The rack! The rack is back!
I don’t know if it too late now that you’ve started, but Modelmaking Guru was working on the engines of the Eagle Transporter and has a video up for a test of a metalizer powder and Vallejo’s Metal Color over primer. He is using Stynylrez (Ultimate brand in the UK) gloss primer in the example… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyGYyr0j6A8
Your silver armor reminded me of the work he did for the engines, or in the test video, spoons. You can see if that finish would work for you.
My current favorite metallic technique is to add Vallejo Plata Silver (yes I know I just said silver twice 😀 ) to any non-metallic color. The silver is very bright and acts almost like a metallizer giving a sheen to the other color. Start at a 50/50 ratio to create your custom metallic and just the ratio from there .
I used this in building up a turquoise color for my Alpha Legion, adding the silver shine into the mid and highlight blues and greens.
@enginseer why not just use vallejo’s metallic medium….?
I don’t have any… 😛
So I was watching another channel (I know but I was all caught up on BoW 🙂 ) and maybe I have also seen it here with one of you but they said if you are doing cool metallics ie silver, chrome etc use a blue undercoat and if you are doing warm metallics ie gold, copper, etc use a red undercoat. Does this hold water or is it a painting myth?
Another great video @johnlyons !
@ghent99 yup its true mostly, its why GW have started using a flesh wash on golds when stormcasts came out so that they had a warmer tone than pure gold, and why the deathwatch painting guide vids use a blue wash/glaze on the lettering on the shoulder pads/silver armour areas. but it really depends on the paint to the level of the effect you get with undercoats (i personally alter the “temperature” after the fact with washes and glazes), not so much with acrylics, but with the buffable and real metal finish paints people are using a lot of in… Read more »
Excellent video, as always Lookin’ forward to how this goes. You mentioned Space Wolves. Was this the Heresy era army? Did that ever happen?
They happened on one of our early Hobby Night Live sessions.
Cheers @johnlyons I’ll have to track that down! Did the army get completed?
Is the airbrush primer as solid as the GW spraycan primer ? Or are there tendencies for the paint to scrub of on sharp edges ?
Cheers Sir ! Love your work.
@yoshi once fully cured (leave it 24 hours before painting to de-gas, as a chemical reaction goes on when in contact with air) its a lot tougher than GW’s, the lovely thing about polyurethane based primers is that they kind of shrink to the surface rather than sit on it, meaning details look crisper, and a “skin” builds up rather than a layer of paint, its hard to explain but trust me once you start using a primer like @johnlyons uses in this vid you wont go back to car primer or gw’s
plus it lasts a LOT LOT LOT LOT longer and is a LOT LOT LOT LOT cheaper and doesn’t stink, i typically get through 60ml of primer a year or about £8 a pot, vs £8 a can which if im lucky i get 30 – 40 mini’s primed with…
Thanks mate !
I got me a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity AL with an Eurotec 20A. They have been waiting quite some time now, but i am finally about to dive into all things airbrush.
Could you advise what polyurethane I should get ?
Oh I’ve been looking forward to these!! May just be the push over the edge to get me back into 40k
Great video, can’t wait for more!
Looking forward to seeing this vlog unfold John.
Great video, looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
knew it was an Iwata, didn’t know it was an eclipse.
loving the airbrush content.
General airbrushing question.
I’ve been doing a bunch of airbrushing recently, and I’m occasionally getting this odd behavior where paint stops coming out of the airbrush when I pull back on the trigger. The only paint that comes out during these situations is a small “spurt” of paint when I release the trigger.
Anyone with more airbrush experience know what’s going on? Diluting the paint doesn’t help, as I’ve tried that, so it appears to not be a paint thickness issue.
Thanks!
You may be getting some clumping of paint in the chamber where the needle slides back and forth. As you aerosol paint it begins to collect and can clump. The spurt is the paint breaking loose from the release of the needle. What air pressure are you using and what is the consistency of your paints?
Paints are fairly thinned, and I’ve tried thinning them more and it doesn’t seem to help. I’m typically running at around 15-20 PSI by the gauge on the unit. It does occasionally seem to help to crank up the psi and force some air through it then lower the PSI again.
@foehammer888 First of all when is the last time you did a full strip down? Sounds like you have a small particle of paint trapped in the nozzle… Secondly what paints are you using? Do you use any airbrush flow improver, and what are you using for thinning? Thridly how do you mix the paint in the cup, or use a shot glass, if you mix in the cup ALWAYS add paint to thinner, i.e. put thinner in first, then add paint to it, it helps stop getting thick paint drawn into the needle path, which will gum up the… Read more »
@nakchak how do you recommend cleaning out the novel of an airbrush without a floating nozzle? When I remove the front parts of my airbrush, My nozzle appears to be fixed to the body of the airbrush. This means I can’t get at the back end to clean it out. What I’m trying right now is running some cleaner through it, then letting it sit with cleaner in it for a few hours, then repeating. The strange thing is this just started happening without any recent changes to my airbrush approach. I use non-airbrush paint, mix in the pot with… Read more »
@foehammer888 what airbrush do you have?
I dont know of a single airbrush where the nozzle isnt removable, as they are paired to needle size so you need to swap both the nozzle and the needle to change sizes…
Unless you have a harder steenback (where it just pops off) it should unscrew with a little spanner than came with the brush, just be careful when putting it back together not to corss thread it or over tighten, just over finger tight is fine.
John.. i love your vlogs.. but can you plz show us what we exactly need for mixing some paints for airbrush.. i know that alot of you guys have experience with airbrushing but im a big NOOB at that point but i realy try to learn it
You want it to the consistency of skim milk.
Its an experience thing, if your getting started save the frustration and buy some ready mix airbrush paints, they are generally in the right ball park, but a drop or two of thinner is usually needed as well and gives you a good idea of what you are aiming for. sorry @stvitusdancern i hate the like milk description you hear bandied about, what your looking for is to start with a 50/50 mix of paint to thinner mix it in a disposable shot glass, once well mixed together take your brush and draw the paint up the side of the… Read more »
One thing that will make models standout even more… drilling out gun barrels! Looking forward to the rest of the series
Couldnt agree more lol
You should try the Vallejo Metal Color range Jon, you will never go back to another metallic.
thanks to @nakchak for dropping knowledge.
nice looking figures.
Why do all 40K models look the same …..
Without those silly miniguns that Primaris Dreadnought looks very good.
Have you found that airbrush primer is generally better than rattle can primer?
I would also love to see a video comparing different airbrushes and the best one for different types of users.