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The Final Push – Lawnor approaches 100% painted

The Final Push – Lawnor approaches 100% painted

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Project Blog by lawnor Cult of Games Member

Recommendations: 2724

About the Project

It's August 2020 and the end is in sight. Out of the 2200ish models I own I only currently have 63 left to paint, so why not share the final push with everyone and watch me accidentally buy and print faster than I paint instead of doing this

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23 MTG: Sister Corazon Abeita & Dawaanh, Walvax Warrior

Tutoring 5
Skill 7
Idea 5
No Comments

I printed Sister Corazon last year at the scale she was issued at (28-30mmish).  She printed well enough but then the swords broke off long before I removed the scaffold.  They were bent and they were paper thin.  They aren’t made of enough material to survive being straightened or for the glue to bite in to to hold them on.  No way I could drill a pin in to them.  Not a chance.  Even if they had survived as far as priming, they;d have snapped off under the weight of a 00 brush on them so I opted to leave them off and try and carefully file down the hilts from the hands.

It feels like they were designed at a much larger scale and they didn’t check the integrity of the components when it was downscaled.  Pretty sure I asked them about this and they insisted every model was designed at 28mm scale and everything had printed fine for them.  I didn’t push the issue but either they aren’t being entirely honest, or every test print is done with the highest of high end machines and the bestest of resins.

Sister Corazon Abeita by 3dartdigital from their 3D printing Survivors of Serath kickstarterSister Corazon Abeita by 3dartdigital from their 3D printing Survivors of Serath kickstarter
Those bloody swordsThose bloody swords

I got this next guy in an AssetDrop Monster Box last year along with a basic MDF boat.  I didn’t really have much interest in either, but he’s come out OK. He fell over at one point and a finger broke off.  I didn’t notice at first and had a panic search before finding it.  I’ve glued it back on as best as I can.  Its quite noticeable if you know what you’re looking for, but otherwise I think I’ve gotten away with it as best as I could without filing down and filling the gap and I’d already done a few layers of the flesh at that point.

I made the base myself from coffee stirers.  Word of advice for anyone doing the same: The planks will expand as they absorb glue so leave a little room at each end.  I had to do repairs once they pushed themselves up.

Dawaanh, Walvax Warrior by Mierce Minis for DarklandsDawaanh, Walvax Warrior by Mierce Minis for Darklands

Spring Clean Hobby Challenge 2021

Tutoring 4
Skill 4
Idea 5
No Comments

I’m adding this to the new Spring Clean challenge.  Its a but cheeky as I’ve been working on this projct for months, but it is essentially one massive Spring Clean challenge.  I’m doing all the stuff that’s been sat ignored on my shelves for years and finally finishing it.  I hope to have everything outside of the undelivered and the Box of Undesireables (Mostly early Mantic stuff I’d rather sell as I don’t use and I got fed up of they way that materials resist a good cleanup) finished this year, and ideally about the same time that KD:M or AT:O gets delivered later this year.

I at least want to finish the 8 models on my desk (Averaging 2 a week under furlough so far) and the monthly extra model that arrives before KD:M gets here (Shipping May?).  That should just leave my untouched Super Fantasy Brawl core box before I do a stock take on the Box of Undesireables and admit I’m probably going to end up painting that after all.

I also have about 1.5l of resin to print before it expires around July.  I’m just waiting for the temperature to rise as I’m told prints fail below 20c and I don’t want to crank the heating up 24/7 all that way just for the printer.  I’m npt sure how others have kept the printing up over winter.  I should look in to printing some more 40K Khorne Daemons substitutes for an upcomming Crusade but I’ve no idea what I’ll want.  If anyone knows 40k Khorne Daemons and doesn’t mind offering advice I’d love a chat.  I hear they’re a little weak by themselves and I should plan on cross factioning it.  I’ve seen mention of adding Nurgle but adding Khorne Marines or just chaos marines seems more thematic but I’ve no clue of it fixes the issue.  I’d prefer to build and paint with an eye to playing in other game modes too.  I know Crusade is more open in what you can add to your army.

I’ve also got a £50 OTT store voucher expiring around June/July which may be spent on MCP or 40K, but I’d be open to a solo player alternative.  Anyone any suggestions?  I might consider the next Warhammer Quest if I knew anything about its campaign mode or gameplay, and if it’ll be out in time.

25 MTG: Benrette Vigil & Humalkas

Tutoring 3
Skill 7
Idea 3
2 Comments
Bernette Vigil for Wolsung by Micro Art Studios, painted as part of the Monkeys With Fire March 2021 community challengeBernette Vigil for Wolsung by Micro Art Studios, painted as part of the Monkeys With Fire March 2021 community challenge
Humalkas by Rotten Factory from an Asset Drop Monster Box thats been sat on my shelf gathering dust for a long while.  Seemed like a good opportunity to test out the Nurgle scheme from Vallejos Humalkas by Rotten Factory from an Asset Drop Monster Box thats been sat on my shelf gathering dust for a long while. Seemed like a good opportunity to test out the Nurgle scheme from Vallejos "Non-Death Chaos" paint set for the first time. Not bad. Could use some more dirty layers under the final glaze. Something to stop the green being so bright? Any clue what this guy might be a proxy for within Nurgles armies?

27 MTG: Living and Undead Cockatrices

Tutoring 5
Skill 7
Idea 5
No Comments
Cockatrice by TTCombatCockatrice by TTCombat
27 MTG: Living and Undead Cockatrices

I finished off the Cockatrice and started work on it’s undead version straight after.  I’m not seeing them on the TTCombat store anymore.  Not sure if they are just out of stock or if they’ve been discontinued.  There are problems with these sculpts.  Quite a few bubbles, a squdged splodge on the living guys belly, and lots of gaps that needed attention.

The biggest issue is with the pose of the undead one.  See that rock he’s stood on?  Thats not part of the model.  He comes in that pose with a chunky clear flight stand.  No connection point on the base or the model so I assume I’m supposed to get a drill and put a huge hole in his belly for it.  That’d be so ugly and there’d be no ignoring it.  There’s no way a single pin through the dainty ankle of the single foot on the floor would support all that weight without a second support.  This guy is quite heavy.  This is a lareg reason why he’s been sat in my pile of shame for two years.  The rock was a Tutorial Tile from Asset Drop that was about the right height for the job.

Undead Cockatrice by TTCombatUndead Cockatrice by TTCombat

There were a few washes on its flesh that I knew would take hours to dry so I got a lot of building work done while waiting.  The following guys got primed this weekend as a result.  Thats everything from my count built except one Ritual Casting model that intimidates the hell out of me because she’s 10″ tall and has 2 lightsabers and I’ve no clue how to do OSL (Help wanted: Got any tutorials that might help with red OSL on dark brown, grey or black cloth or leather?  She’s a Sith).  Super Fantasy Brawl needs checking for cleanup before priming still.

One of the prepped models is my first Carnivale one.  Its been washed twice and still won’t take primer.  It’s had 5-6 coats and its still as patchy as a thing thats very patchy.  I’m still prepping its base so it is going to get another coat anyway.  I’ve no idea if I’ve gotten unlucky or if this is a thing with all their models, or perhaps something about this particular sculpt?

27 MTG: Living and Undead Cockatrices

I also received this month Community Challenge model from Monkeys With Fire and Micro Art Studios: Bernette Vigil for Wolsung.  She’s my next project and I’m layering coats of flesh as I type this.

27 MTG: Living and Undead Cockatrices

28 MTG: Ogres and Cockatrice started

Tutoring 8
Skill 9
Idea 7
4 Comments

I finished the ogres at last.  Took over a week due to distractions (See below) and all that fur on that mammoth / cat / thing.

Atlantis Miniatures Ogre War Boss (m)Atlantis Miniatures Ogre War Boss (m)
Atlantis Miniatures Ogre War Boss (f)Atlantis Miniatures Ogre War Boss (f)
GW Ogre Harpooner / Crossbowman made from spare parts.  No idea if he fits an existing stat profile or notGW Ogre Harpooner / Crossbowman made from spare parts. No idea if he fits an existing stat profile or not

Next up is TTCombats Cockatrice.  I saw this on a Weekender and loved it and instantly backed the KS.  I then won a copy of the Undead Cockatrice too so yay!

 

Question: Adding grey to paint apparently desaturates the colours.  Is anyone experienced with this and can offer advice?  I want to do that with these colours for the undead version.  If I add a little neutral grey to all the colours will they look dull and lifeless?  Should I go 50/50, or just add a drop?  Should I mix dark greys with dark colours and light with light, or just stick with a mid tone grey?

For my own reference later, here is the colours I’ve used so far:

Zenithal prime
Based flesh first (P3 Khardic Flesh)
Base Secret Weapon Tire Black (50/50 with thinner in airbrush)

spraying with the feathers to try and leave shade in the “steps” between from here on out

High 1 over all but flatter undersides: Secret Weapon Rubber
High 2 Secret Weapon Rubber Highlight towards the tips of outer feathers

Tips base: 6 parts Rubber, 6 parts, VMC 70.966 Turquoise 12 parts thinner
Tips high 1: added 5 parts VMC 70.808 Blue green and 5 parts thinner to what was left in my airbrush
Tips high 2: Added 2 parts VMC 70.918 Ivory and 2 parts thinner to what was left in my airbrish

Undecided at this time, but there will oikely be a pin wash of nuln oil in the cracks/edges.

TTCombat CockatriceTTCombat Cockatrice

Its 6pm on a saturday and I’ve just tried to keep painting her but I cannot.  My hands no longer hold a brush well enough for me to keep trying.  They don’t want to hold small things and they shake too much for me to do any precision work.  Nothing medical going on here (I hope).  Just gardening side effects.

The previous owners of my house left a lot of rocks and rubble down the bottom of my garden.  I have new neighbours and they are the first people to go in that back garden in 20+ years (its a nightmare over there).  They are making it habitable and want to redo my fence and have got a skip outside.  They’ve let me dump all my rocks in it so a fence can be put through where they would have been in the way.  I spent a day diging up all the rocks and another carrying everything to the skip that could be lifted.

Today I borrowed a sledgehammer, a pickaxe, a lump hammer and some masonry chisels and broke up the final 4 too-large-to-lift pieces.  A chunk of wall and 3 concrete lumps from the bottom of fence posts.  Right now my hands would happily work with the sledgehammer but they wont do fiddly things like untie my shoelaces, hold cutlery, or work with a paintbrush.  I hope this changes by the morning.  I guess I’m going to bed early and catching up on the Arrowverse tonight.

 

Pic 1: My garden early on in Lockdown after I started removing all the crap my absent housemate had put up for his chickens (deceased) that prevented us from getting to the bottom of the garden

Pic 2: My garden after the first day of digging with all the rocks smaller than a brick brought up to the patio out of shot for easier disposal

Pic 3: My garden 4pm today.  I am knackered and need new hands, but I’ve done the things I never thought I’d be able to do.

32 MTG: Soraya

Tutoring 4
Skill 7
Idea 5
No Comments
Soraya by RN EstudiosSoraya by RN Estudios

I’ve got 4 ogres to paint so I’m doing them all at the same time and trying to tie them all together.  Probelm is, the GW guys look like they want to wear clean crisp colours and the Atlantis Miniatures ogres look like they want to be wearing dirty earthen tones.  I don’t know what I’m going to do yet, but I’ll likely head towards earthen tones.  I’ve finished the mount and painted the flesh and bones on the Ogres.  I should have them done by the end of the week.

32 MTG: Soraya

Tutoring 4
Skill 6
Idea 4
No Comments
Soraya by RN EstudiosSoraya by RN Estudios

I’ve got 4 ogres to paint so I’m doing them all at the same time and trying to tie them all together.  Probelm is, the GW guys look like they want to wear clean crisp colours and the Atlantis Miniatures ogres look like they want to be wearing dirty earthen tones.  I don’t know what I’m going to do yet, but I’ll likely head towards earthen tones.  I’ve finished the mount and painted the flesh and bones on the Ogres.  I should have them done by the end of the week.

33 MTG: Dragon Empire and Kyrie, Female Barbarian

Tutoring 6
Skill 8
Idea 7
No Comments

I painted up the last or my recent rpizes this week, all from Monkeys with Fire and donated by Reaper and Titan Forge

Kyrie, Female Barbarian by ReaperKyrie, Female Barbarian by Reaper
Fujira, Dragon Empire by Titan ForgeFujira, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge
Xianou, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge.  The flag comes in 3 parts and the shaft is maybe narrower than a paperclip and requires pinning to stay on.  Its so fragile they didn't bother to put the bottom on for the studio painted example on their web store.Xianou, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge. The flag comes in 3 parts and the shaft is maybe narrower than a paperclip and requires pinning to stay on. Its so fragile they didn't bother to put the bottom on for the studio painted example on their web store.
Raion, Dragon Empire by Titan ForgeRaion, Dragon Empire by Titan Forge

I’ve also been thinking towards future projects and done a little prep.  A year ago a friend gave me their unpainted Frostlord on Stonehorn and three sprues from its construction.  It came almost fully built.  The rider is separate and there’s 2 leather straps left on the sprue.  While working out it’s at that stage I also noticed there were enough parts on the sprue to build another ogre, so I now have an ogre crossbowman to paint too.

TTCombat Zombie Cockatrice and GW FrosthornTTCombat Zombie Cockatrice and GW Frosthorn
TT Combat Cockatrice, Atlantice Miniatures Female Ogre War Boss, Ogre built from spare parts, Frosthorn Rider, and Atlantis Miniatures Male Ogre War BossTT Combat Cockatrice, Atlantice Miniatures Female Ogre War Boss, Ogre built from spare parts, Frosthorn Rider, and Atlantis Miniatures Male Ogre War Boss
Klukva Hell Crusader II, Hell Crusader, 3dartdigital wolf, RN Estudios Soraya, and 3dartdigitals Number XXXVIIKlukva Hell Crusader II, Hell Crusader, 3dartdigital wolf, RN Estudios Soraya, and 3dartdigitals Number XXXVII

36 MTG: Prizes, Lunah, Daruma, Small World Sophie, and Jada Twinsuns

Tutoring 5
Skill 7
Idea 6
No Comments

The Monkeys With Fire anniversary stream happened recently and I won a Reaper paint set, 2 minis, and some Micro Art Studio sci-fi billboards.  Along with my prizes, I also receiver the February comminuty challenge model: Small World Sophie by Reaper

Free stuff is my favourite kind of stuffFree stuff is my favourite kind of stuff

While waiting for that box I also painted up a couple of prizes from MWF I’ve been saving from over the years.  I’ve since painted Sophie and Jada Twinsuns from the above delivery.

Daruma by Titan Forge, based on Earthbenders from Avatar The Last AirbenderDaruma by Titan Forge, based on Earthbenders from Avatar The Last Airbender
Lunah, Lunah, "Elven Ranger"from Aristeia! (A game I can never spell without help)
Small World Sophie by Reaper.  My first ever ChibiSmall World Sophie by Reaper. My first ever Chibi
Jada Twinsuns by ReaperJada Twinsuns by Reaper

37 MTG: Abomination, Klukva Demon of Lust, & Raging Heroes Shiveryah, & Nocturna Malefic Flesh set review

Tutoring 9
Skill 9
Idea 8
2 Comments

There it is.  The final model from the Conquest starter set: The Abomination.  That means all I have keft is 40 models to paint just for the fun of it, at least until the next big box arrives in a few months.

 

Spires Paint lists as a reminder to future me:

Bone

Base: P3 Jack Bone

Wash 1: Gw Seraphom Sepia

Wash 2: Handcraft Tabletop Terrain Wash Dunkelschatten / Dark brown Grey 267.01

Drybrush 1: P3 Menoth White Base

Drybrush 2: P3 Menoth White Highlight

 

Horns

Base: Mr Paint Brown-Grey

Drybrush 1: Mr Paint Dust Grey

Drybrush 2: Mr Paint Bine White

Wash/filter (Around base of each horn only): Brown-Grey with just a hint of Black

Dark Cloth

Base: P3 Coal Black

Wash: Gw Nuln Oil

Drybrush: I started with Coal Black mixed with Menoth White Base, but it was similat to p3 Trollblood Base so I switched to that for convenience.  it ended up a little more blue and less green as a result, but speed is the key to large armies

 

Burgundy Cloth (Menoth robes guide)

Base: P3 Sanguine Base

Wash: P3 Exile Blue, P3 Sanguine Base, P3 Coal Black

High 1: P3 Sangune Highlight

High 2: Sanguine Highlight & P3 Menoth White Base

 

Drone Flesh (Cryx Pallid Flesh)

Base: P3 Ryn Flesh, P3 Carnal Pink, & P3 Trollblood Highlight mix

Wash 1: Base + P3 Traitor Green

Wash 2: Wash 1 + P3 Beaten Purple

Wash 3: Beaten Purple, Traitor Green and P3 Midlund Flesh

High 1: Ryn Flesh, Carnal Pink & Pr Menoth White Highlight

 

Spire Flesh (Retribution of Scyrah Iosan Flesh)

Base: P3 Ryn Flesh and P3 Menoth White Base

Wash 1: Base + P3 Sanguine Highlight

Wash 2: Base + P3 Battledress Green

Wash 3: Sanguine Highlight and Battledress Green

High: Base + Menoth White highlight

 

Chitin

Base: 3-4 large brushes of Revell Aqua Colour Tar Black 361.06 to 1 drop VMC Turquoise 70.966 (On my first day of mixing and basing with this it came out more green than blue, but definitly dark.  When I mixed it up again later for a highlight it seemed more blue than green.  I don’t know what I did different.

Wash: GW Nuln Oil

Drybrush 1: Base

Drybrush 2: P3 Coal Black

Drybrush 3 on highest and sharpest edges only.  Keep this subtle: P3 Trollblood Base

 

Bug Eyes

Undercoat: Gloss Black

Airbrush Base: Turbo Dork Dark Net.  Only do one or two even coats and then spray from above so the colour is less strong on the undersides of the eyes.  I thought of this a little too late.

Post Varnish Treatment: I gave mine two coats of Satin varnish when all was done.

 

Red Gems

Undercoat: VGC 72.053 Chainmal

Base: Many layers ofAmmo Mig Acrylic Crystal A.MIG-093 Crystal Red.

Post Varnish Treatment:I gave them aonther coat or two to restore its glassy appearance.  This worked out better than just gloss varnish

 

Claws

Base: P3 Cryx Bane Base

Drybrush: P3 Hammerfall Khaki

Wash: I think I used GW Athonian Camoshade, but I ususally use GW Nuln Oil

 

Ceramic Mask

Base: P3 Trollblood Highlight

High 1: Added a little P3 Menoth White Base and kept adding a little more as I built up the layers

High 2: Final High 1 mix, with a little P3 Menoth White Highlight, adding more and more again

High 3: Last mix adding pure White again and again

 

Next up I chose the Demon of Lust by Klukva, bases on Slan from the manga Beserk.  I’ve not read it, but I won some Klukva vouchers a while back and I liked this model.  I’ve a large sith lady to paint soon and I’m looking for a good skin paint scheme for her so I picked up the Vallejo Nocturna Malefic Flesh set and thought I’d test out one of the three schemes on her.  I did not have the best experience.  If you have experience with this guide/set please let me know of your experiences.

Vallejo paint kits have been a mixed bag for me.  This is my fourth.  This one more so than the others had dissapointing instructions.  They aren’t instructions.  They’re a list if paints.  This might be fine for a high end painter, but for someone looking for help it’s almost worse than nothing.  Let’s take a look:

Pic 1: I have applied the recommended base colour.  Please note that it looks nothing like the image in the guide.  I am following the Purple Tones guide here.  In the pic she is light pinkish edging towards white.  On my model she is brown.  Only one paint has been asked for so far.  The colours should not be so different.  Either someone is not telling the whole truth or those pictures are really bad.

Pic 2: I started applying some of the first highlights and just no.  This is wrong.  I’m starting again.  They are clearly assuming skills and knowledge they are not discussing, if not outright lying to us.  Time for me to redo a base coat, get out my largely unused wet pallette and try doing this while reading between the lines.

So here’s what I did, more or less

Base and highlight 1: I added a little of their first highlight to their base colour and got an even coat over the model.  I then put a blob of their base and their first highlight on a wet pallette and smudged them together, creating a smooth transition acorss the blend from which I could apply multiple stages of thin highlights over my model.

Shade: I took their base colour and smudged it in to their shade colour as above and did the same again.

Final highlight: Same but smudging my first highlight in to a little of their final highlight

At no point did my colours match their photos, but I like the results.  I need to work on my thinning and wet pallette use, but I do like the tones.  It reminds me of the PP Cryx Pallid Flesh recipe, which I’ve always liked.  Maybe others can match the photos with these paints, but I feel their guide pics are misleading and I’m happy enough with my results.

Time to test of the Nocturna Flesh Blue Tones recipe on Raging Heroes Shiveryah:

Pic 3: Now my photos are starting to be misleading.  While her purple tones weren’t as vibrant as in the guide, she was more purple to the naked eye.  A pale grey-purple.  Step 2 was to highlight with Pale Flesh and yet in their photos the model just gets more purple.  There’s no purple in Pale flesh.  Its a pale flesh colour.  Its like their pics aren’t meant to show you what they’ve done, but are clean repaints of the same piece using just the colour they’ve mentioned.

Pic 4: I’ve followed their guide as best as I can using the techniques discussed for the Demon of Lust.  What I have now is someone with pale purple Dark Elf skin and I really like it, but it is drastically different to what I can see in their photos and not what I was working towards.  Now I’m writing this I’m lookin at Pic 4 below and it does not match the model on my desk, so I’m guessing cameras don’t show this paint shceme very well?  I would not call this Blue Tones.  It’s more purple than the Purple Tones recipe above.

This just leaves the Green Tones recipe to test.  I don’t have a model to hand that is asking for that.  I’ll have to have a hunt around and see what I want to test that on.

 

So far, I rate these paints, but the guide is misleading/lying.  The colours are all muted and desaturated and I have achieved good results with them.  It’s just a shame they didn’t take a little more time over the guide.

 

If you have experience working with this guide please let me know of your experience below.  Am I the problem here, or have others had similar experiences?

If anyone at OTT is reading this I’d love an Edit button at the top as well as the bottom of the project entries.  My entries keep getting long and longer and always require many edits.

40 MTG: Force Grown Drones and Two Objectives

Tutoring 8
Skill 8
Idea 8
No Comments

I finished work on the last of the Spire Drones and the two Spire themed objectives from the Conquest 2 player starter set over the weekend.  This leaves me with only 40 models left to paint, still ignoring the bits box and the box of stuff I’d much rather sell, although I’ve made no attempts to sell since Covid as unnecessary trips to the post office seem bad for everyone.

Final two objectives from Conquest boxFinal two objectives from Conquest box
Final 12 Force Grown DronesFinal 12 Force Grown Drones

I’ve built and primed the final model from the box, the Abomination.  He’s bigger than I thought and a real pain to stick together.  The tricky part was pinning each leg to the body and aligning each of the feet with the legs in such a way that the feel all touch the floor in a plausable way and all four feet fit on the base, which I think could do with being bigger for this guy.

I also built and primed a few fun models for afterwards so I wouldn’t have to wait for anything to dry further down the line.   I’ve just been put on furlough so it would be a shame to waste any of that hobby time.

My tray of recently primed minisMy tray of recently primed minis

54 MTG: Pheromancer, Force Grown Drones and Infinity Zanshi

Tutoring 6
Skill 6
Idea 5
No Comments

I’ve had a productive week.  I finished the first 12 Force Grown Drones and went back and painted the hat I had missed on the Pheromancer because the studio paint scheme has it painted bone, but the art has it painted as cloth.  I always thought cloth made more sense, but I’m not an alien elf bioengineer so what do I know?

Monkeys With Fire’s January community painting challenge was to paint a Zanshi from Infinity (Donated by Corvus Belli).  I’ve painted mine up following the Angel Giraldez guide books as an attempt to learn.  I’m quite happy with the results.  The white and the yellow were airbrushed on but I removed the paint from most of one kneecap while painting the trousers and had to paint it back by hand.  I can’t see the difference so I’m quite chuffed.  This was a welcome change of pace from all the batch painting I’ve been doing.  On that subject, I’ve already laid down the first coat of the blue/green cloth on the next 12 drones.

 

Oh, hey!  Look at that.  I’m back under the number of models to paint that I was at when I started this project!  I do have 1.5ish litres of resin to use up when the temperature rises.  I’ve a robot dragon to print and who knows what else.

12 Force Grown Drones12 Force Grown Drones
PheromancerPheromancer
Zanshi from Yu Jing for infinityZanshi from Yu Jing for infinity

68 MTG: Brutes Done & MWF Prize and Challenge

Tutoring 6
Skill 7
Idea 8
No Comments

I’ve finished painting the Spire Brute Drones.  I thought I’d finished painting the Phermancer too.  He matches the studio paint scheme, but then I saw the art work and his hat is cloth and not bone like with the studio scheme.  This makes much more sense to me so I’m going to go back and paint that when I paint the cloth on the final 12 Drones as I’m almost done on the first 12 now

I also received my prize minis from MonkeysWithFire.  It also included my free mini for the MWF January Community Challenge, donated by Corvus Belli: a Yu Jing Zanshi trooper with a Micro Arts Studios MDF base insert.  A bunch of us are painting the same mini and should have pics sent back by 2nd January.  I have the Angel Giraldez books so I’ll be looking to follow them.

65 MTG: Conquest Objectives & Spire Started

Tutoring 10
Skill 9
Idea 10
No Comments
The four non-Spire objectives from the starter set came together quickly while i was waiting for washes etc to dry on the Spires.  If you look close at the dragon skull you can see they sculpted it with an eyeball bone???The four non-Spire objectives from the starter set came together quickly while i was waiting for washes etc to dry on the Spires. If you look close at the dragon skull you can see they sculpted it with an eyeball bone???

I have built, primed and based all the Spires except the Abomination.  I’ve applied two washes to the bone and since drybrushed it all up twice.  I am currently painting the cloth on the Pheromancer and the Brutes.  The shields remain separate as they would just make life very hard if glued on before painting.  Washes need gravity to work well so I have come up with a solution using Blu Tak

65 MTG: Conquest Objectives & Spire Started

While other painters are getting sponsored by Reaper or Firestorm Games or model companies, I’m chasing the dream: a Heinz sponsorship!

69 MTG: Second 12 Men At Arms and Hundred Kingdoms Paint Recipes

Tutoring 11
Skill 11
Idea 11
No Comments
12 more Ment at Arms12 more Ment at Arms

End of year totals:

  • Unpainted Models Gained: 301 (Mostly from KS’s from last year and one big prize.  Little actual shopping from this year)
  • Models Painted: 413
  • Difference: 112

All thats left to go is the Spires and the 6 objectives and all thats left is fun solo models to paint (And Kingdom Death: Monster and Aeon Tresspass: Odyssey for delivery mid-late next year, theoretically).

 

With my Hundred Kingdoms fully painted, I should probably write down what paints I used so in 20XX when Im allowed to play real people again and decide to add to this force I can match the scheme.  I started with a black prime only.

Mission Models: MMM-002 Cold Rolles Steel

Steel:

Airbrush a single thin all over coat so it still looked mostly black.  Single thicker coat from the top and sides. Single coat from above.  Add in some VGS 72.752 Silver and spray from above only.  Myabe a coat of just the silver but Im not sure?  Allow to dry properly.  Targetted wash with GW Nuln Oil only in therecesses and edges, and over any chain mail.  Almost a pin wash.  Drybrush with P3 Cold Steel.

Leather:

Paint the armour P3 Bootstrap and the straps VMC Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust.  Drybrush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki.  Wash with GW Agrax Earthshade

Flesh:

Base with P3 Midlund flesh.  Wash with Midlund Flesh and P3 Skorne Red mix.  Wash with Midlund Flesh and P3Battledress Green mix.  Wash with Skorne Red and Battledress Green Mix.  Highlight with Midlund Flesh and P3 Ryn Flesh mix.

Red Cloth:

Base with 50/50 Kimera Kolors Red Oxide and Orange.  Takes many layers.  Shade with 3: Red Oxide:Orange and then just Red Oxoide.  Highlight up with 2:1 Orange: Red Oxide, then just Orange, and then 50/50 Orange: Kimera Kolors The White.  These paints are so thin and fluid I stopped adding water to them.

Red Arrow Flights:

Base with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.  Wash with GW Carroburg Crimson.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.

Red Plumes:

Base with GW Khorne Red.  Drybrush with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.  Wash with GW Carroburg Crimson.  Drybrush with GW Wild Rider Red.

Red Shields:

Paint many many layers of P3 Red Ink.  Remember to allow to dry thoroughly otherwise the thin coats will tear.  Remember to work with gravity and switch orientation of shields while drying.

Crossbows:

Base with P3 Menoth White Base or any ivory.  Paint VMC 70.828 Woodgrain (transp.)

Grey Cloaks:

Base with P3 Greatcloak Grey with just a little P3 Menoth White Highlight.  Shade with Greatcloak Grey.  Deep shade with 50/50 Greatcloak Grey and P3 Coal Black.  Highlight with Greatcloak Grey mixed with P3 Menoth White Base.  Add Menoth White Highlight to last mix for final highlights.  This came out more blue than expected.  Perhaps add a final all over wash of GW Nuln Oil to make it more grey in future before applying highlights?

Grey/Black Shoes:

Base with VMC 70.995 German Grey.  Drybrush with P3 Mentoh White Highlight.  Wash with GW Nuln Oil

Horses: I should have wrote this one down sooner.  I don’t remember clearly.  Base with VMC 70.826 German Cam. Med. Brown.  Mix in some VMC 70.883 Flat Earth and highlight up.  Use pure flat earth.  Mix in P3 Hammerfal Khaki(?) and bring up too far.  Wash down with AP Strong Tone

Hooves:

Base with P3 Cryx bane base.  Paint vertical stripes of P3 Trollblood Highlight and then P3 Hammerfall Khaki.  Wash once or twice with GW Nuln Oil

Gold:

Base with P3 Rhulic Gold.  Wash with GW Seraphim Sepia.  Highlight with P3 Solid Gold

Bases

Prime Black.  Airbrush enough VMA 71.043 Olive Drab to tint the ground but not dominate it.  Drybrush with P3 Bootstrap Leather.  Pick out the stones with P3 Bastion Grey.  Wash stones with GW Nuln Oil.  Drybrush stones and ground gently with P3 ‘Jack Bone.

I think thats everything?

 

I’ve also built all the Spires except the Abomination, and prepared their bases.  The bases need to dry for 8-12 hours before getting a final coat of water PVA and then they want a day or two to dry before priming.  I’m saving the Abomination for after as it deserves more attention and I hope to understand the requirements for painting this faction better when Im done with the infantry, allowing me to plan sub assemblies better.

All the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the AbominationAll the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the Abomination

69 MTG: Second 12 Men At Arms and Hundred Kingdoms Paint Recipes

Tutoring 11
Skill 12
Idea 13
No Comments
12 more Ment at Arms12 more Ment at Arms

With my Hundred Kingdoms fully painted, I should probably write down what paints I used so in 20XX when Im allowed to play real people again and decide to add to this force I can match the scheme

All the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the AbominationAll the Spires built and their bases drying, except for the Abomination

81 MTG: First 12 Men At Arms

Tutoring 7
Skill 10
Idea 11
No Comments

Here’s the first 12 Men At Arms all painted up.  I’ve started work on the next 12 and hope to have them done before the new year.  I also painted the red of the flag objective at the same time to save time later.

81 MTG: First 12 Men At Arms

93 MTG Hundred Kingdoms Cavalry & MWF Awards

Tutoring 9
Skill 12
Idea 12
No Comments
3 Man unit of Household Knights3 Man unit of Household Knights
Rotational view of a Household knightRotational view of a Household knight
Noble LordNoble Lord

For the record, that steel looks a lot smoother in person.  Sometimes the camera shows all the flaws with my airbrushing that the eye cannot see.

That’s me done for 401 models this year and 100 more models done than I’ve gained.  Time to start work on the 24 Men-at-Arms, possibly as two units of 12.  I’m also one mission in to Heart of Glorm (Mice and Mystics expansion 1).  Playing through this is part of my 2021 hobby pledge.

Monkeys With Fire had their first Annual Community Hobby Awards last week.  Only 4-6 entries per category, but I picked up Best Bust for Brisket.  I think I actually came second, but he wanted to spread the prize support around and SuperSarah1313 had already won something.  I also won two joke awards.  Best Miniature Booty and Mini Painting Machine.

My pledges for 2021

  • Paint more models than I gain unpainted models

  • If a faction starts the year 100% painted it should end the year 100% painted

  • Complete playthrough of Reichbusters once the errata is delivered (Currently looking at march-ish, only 1 year after the game was actually delivered) – I’m already half way through and on hold waiting

  • Try Aeon Trespass: Odyssey before pledge manager closes (Delivery looking at Q3 2021 at the moment)

  • If I like AT:O paint ahead of what’s needed (4 Titans, Hekaton, and Labyrinthauros for prelude chapter I think, + more as I play)

  • Try KD:M and If I like it, paint ahead of what’s needed (Arriving May?) (4 Survivors, White Lion, & Antelope + more as I play)

  • Mice and Mystics: Heart of Glorm expansion: Paint the two characters and play the game

  • Play through the Mice and Mystics: Heart of Glorm expansion

  • Clear out the bulk paintables so I can focus on fun character stuff (75 Conquest minis from starter set)

  • Get my party to complete the current D&D campaign before life gets in the way

97 MTG Heart of Glorm & Hundred Kingdoms

Tutoring 9
Skill 11
Idea 11
2 Comments

During a recent week of work I played through Mice and Mystics just in time to pick up the first expansion cheap during Black Friday.  The box turned up the following Friday afternoon, and I got them painted on that Saturday.  Here is Neré and Glorm ready for a Christmas playthrough.

I won the Conquest starter set here a month back.  I’ve finished my first unit and as such tested the paint scheme.  Now to power through the rest of the Hundred Kingdoms.  If I can paint 3 more models I’ll have painted 400 models this year.  A new personal best and hopefully the last chance I’ll have to do this.  One more on top of that and I’ll have painted 100 models more than I’ve gained this year (I do not recall buying 300 models and yet somehow this happened).  So, next up is the 4 cav models from the box.  The metal was done earlier and I’ve already painted the horse flesh and based half the leather.  I’ve 2 weeks left and some time off due.  Pretty sure I can do this.

97 MTG Heart of Glorm & Hundred Kingdoms

111 MTG Aeturnus Continuum Finished

Tutoring 9
Skill 11
Idea 11
No Comments

I’ve finished the final four models from my Aeturnus Continuum starter set, but I spent some money on Black Friday and bought Kingdom Death Monster 1.6 and Heart of Glorm, the first Mice and Mystics expansion.  KDM isn’t turning up until Q2 2021, but Glorm arrived today.  Its only two models and they are currently primed and rying awaiting my attention in the morning.  I’m going to get these two done and then play it over christmas, I think.

MarauderMarauder
Scourge WarjackScourge Warjack
Scourge Warjack with all his magnetised weapon options.  Heavy metal weapons and single point magents do not work well :(Scourge Warjack with all his magnetised weapon options. Heavy metal weapons and single point magents do not work well :(
2x Poetable Void Gates2x Poetable Void Gates
My Aeternus Continuum starter set all finished, and on 3D printed bases kindly supplied by Blinky back when the Kickstarter was live (Its what tricked me in to buying my own printer)My Aeternus Continuum starter set all finished, and on 3D printed bases kindly supplied by Blinky back when the Kickstarter was live (Its what tricked me in to buying my own printer)

EDIT: I won a golden button for these guys.  Probably because I’m the only person here with a painted set, but a button is a button.  I’m half way to doing up a shirt by now I think.

111 MTG Aeturnus Continuum Finished

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