Idoneth Deepkin Slow Build

The Advil wasn’t cutting it from the pain from my Wisdom Teeth extraction so I had to switch to the hard stuff and was out of it for several days. Downside, it looks like the nerve was bruised due to proximity to the extracted tooth. But head mostly cleared up I pushed on.

I decided put my chest on a piece of cork to make it stand out from the sandy paste and water. I mocked up a piece with some aquarium plants I also plan to add.

I shaped off several pieces of cork and used a chest to make sure it fit on it. I find that using a set of needle nose pliers give a good random breakage pattern, better than doing it by hand.

I wanted some texture on the cork but not anything as coarse as the sandy paste will be so I used some Vallejo Brown Earth. It has a much finer grit to it. I used it just on the top of the cork after gluing them down to the bases.

I decided on using 50mm bases. 50mm are the size of objective in Warmachine and since AoS just measure from the center of the objective it wouldn’t matter much either. Making it 50mm though does break it down to easier math for AoS since it’s 1″ from the center to the edge of the base so you’d need to be within 2″ of the edge to claim it.

Proxie Models makes some nice flat bases. I ordered a bunch of them from Amazon a while back.

I was going to start quick painting the treasure chests when I ran into my second, and bigger setback. Once again, my airbrush compressor died. That’s two within as many months.

The first one was years old and I understand it giving up but this new one was literally just 1 day over a month old. After 10 minutes of base coating the chests it turned off and refused to turn back on. I called the company I bought it from and they’re sending me a new one but that’s still about a week before it arrives.

So this also forced me to figure out priming as I’ve been using an airbrush to prime for years now.

I found a rattle can of Army Painter’s Wold Grey and used that on the objective bases. (I also took a moment and hand primed the Tidecaller figure using Army Painter Brush-on Primer.)

Next step is some washes and drybrushing on the objective before adding the sandy paste and trying the different water experiments.

With the water effects mostly dried it’s turned out to be more opaque than I thought. The thin portions show some of the underlying rock texture, with the thicker portions being nice starting points for waves. But it’s not what I was going for.

Starting over I’m going to approach the base tests with new approaches:

1. sand texture plain but piled higher and with thinner layer of water effects
2. sand texture plain with clear water effect slightly tinted blue (I’ll dig out the Woodland Scenics)
3. sand texture with the Drakenhof Nightshade wash (possibly watered further) and clear water effects
4. sand texture plain with a mix of Vallejo water effects and clear water effects (no clue at all if this will work)
5. sand texture plain with water effects mixed with gloss medium (more alchemy experiments)
6. not sure what to do for a sixth test, honestly…

I think I’m also going to dig up some chests models I have from Wizkids and quickly paint them up. I’ll glue them down and try these new base tests on 30mm or 40mm flat bases (the chests cover too much on a 25mm base) so as to get  some pirate themed objective markers out of all this.

The lore for this enclave is for it to be representing one of the offshoots of the Idoneth that settled in the Realm of Shadow. To reflect this I don’t want to use the sandy beaches and shorelines that I’ve seen used. I want something that looks cold, desolate, and gloomy to start with.

I also wanted to do a rocky type of beach with a thin layer of water flowing over it representing the magical tide the Idoneth bring with them.

I applied the Sandy Paste over a spare base using a sculpting tool and let it dry. I’ve never used any of the Vallejo Water Textures but it is supposed to end up translucent with a tint of blue once it’s dried out.

I decided to add some depth to the base by adding a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade. I really liked the effect from the wash and can see a lot of potential for this in the future.

The Water Texture is a deep blue and will take 24 hours to completely dry. So I applied some, shaped it a bit with a sculpting tool, and called it a day. We’ll see how this turns out and get started painting tomorrow.

Recovered enough from having two impacted wisdom teeth extracted to keep progressing. I clipped, cleaned, filed, and assembled the Tidecaster.

Being a GW figure and made of true plastic, I prefer to use Testor’s liquid cement for plastic models applied with a toothpick to the area to be bound.

The motivation to get this started was seeing a painting event on Facebook called “The Fellowship of the Brush” happening at the Warhammer store near me.

https://www.facebook.com/events/926765414178446/

Needing a kick in the ass to get back on the painting horse, and as an excuse to finally start assembling an Idoneth force,  I decided to enter and picked up the Isharann Tidecaster (skipping the Tech Priest because “Death to the False Emperor!”).

I hope to get the main figure assembled and primed tomorrow, though the cape will remain off until the end.

I’ll also be experimenting with basing using the Thralls bases. I want to create a slightly flooded sandy base rather than a beach front that I’ve seen others do. I have some Vallejo sand texture and am waiting on the Mediterranean water gel to arrive on Thursday.

The spanner in my plan is I’m getting my wisdom teeth extracted (they’re sunk deep and parallel in there and need to be sliced to be removed as well as jamming in some good old fashioned cadaver bone implants in the gaps) on Thursday morning. I’m assuming a week top recover based on having had the other side done in June.

I’ll post next with the assembled model and my plans for colors and painting techniques. I’m looking to push myself so I’ll be doing things outside of my comfort zone, because I’m dumb like that.