Klorophil's Warhammer Armies

Now that the armor was done, I needed to pick up the details. Leather was done with P3 Bootstrap Leather. This was then washed with Citadel Snakebite Leather Contrast. I then edge highlighted with a second pass of pure Bootstrap Leather. Complete!

The bolters were painted with P3 Thamar Black and edge highlighted with a mix of P3 Thamar Black and Liquitex Titanium White. I used Liquitex because that’s what I had handy but any old pure white would have worked.

I will need to work on my edge highlighting technique. I don’t find it too difficult but it requires excellent brush control. Just don’t drink too much coffee beforehand. I did find that having the right brush and paint consistency is critical. It’s better to have a bit brighter color but with a milk-like consistency. This way it’s easier to control the flow of paint from your brush to the mini. Having a brighter tone will also mean that it will dry a bit darker on the mini since you thinned the paint down a lot. Let transparency work for you. I used a 00 Windsor Series 7 brush for this. I guess any good sable brush could work, but I adore my Series 7s. Also, a bigger brush could work too if you’re good with brush control.

You’ll see that I also picked out the imperial eagle as well as the helmet’s eyes. I used P3 Menoth White Highlight  (MWH) for that. Again thinned down to a milky consistency. I will use Contrast Paints on those parts later and I found that MWH is really good proxy for Citadel’s Wraithbone Base. Since I don’t like Citadel’s Base paints I prefer using MWH. A word of advice though, be sure to wait until the MWH is thoroughly dry before either applying another coat or applying your Contrast Paint. You may end up with bad results otherwise.