40k Space Wolves & Daemons Boot Sale Bargain - Help Lawnor identify and fix please (Spring Cleaning)
Painting, clean up and prep for the future
I ran these guys under the tap in warm water and rubbed them gently with a toothbrush and they look much cleaner. 32mm seems to be the future for space marines so I’ll likely re-base them before painting. I know the old bases aren’t a problem to stick with, at least for this edition. I have a few questions I’d like some feedback on:
1: If I wanted to strip the paint off the tanks without dismantling them, is my best option actually a big bucket of Dettol? I usually use a jam jar, which needs a lot less fluid.
2: If I didn’t strip and just primed over the top with my airbrush, does anyone foresee any issues?
3: I’ve seen the Citadel paints app for the Space Wolves colour scheme, but GW paint pots hate air brushes. Anyone got a Vallejo recipe they like and care to share? otherwise I’ll look at the DakkDakka chart and just compare GW and Vallejo pots down the store one day, and that’s not always representative of their dry colours.
4: Space Wolves deserve snowy rocky ground. I have some PrecisionIceAndSnow fake snow which I’ve used and like, but it really wants lots of peaks and troughs on a base to work well. I could put down cork rocks, and bits of kitty litter. I could base stamp some green stuff broken ground. Anyone got any other suggestions for adding spots of height to the base that won’t stop me drilling pin holes through them and sticking a marine down with them?
5: If anyone has some spare Las Cannons for a Predator tank or a Land Raider (Which also needs a sponson optic) and doesn’t mind parting with them please let me know. I also have the resin body for Abaddon the Despoiler. He either needs all the other parts sending to me, or he needs to be adopted by someone else who has the parts.
6: Anyone any experience with Oyumaru or other mould making sticks? Think I could make moulds from the las cannons I have and then mod them to fit the other sides of these tanks? Would it take lots of practise to get it right? Would I be better off casting the guns in two halves (top and bottom) and then gluing them together after, or trying to make a full clamshell mould?
UPDATE 10/10/18
I found the parts for the Predator, one Land Raider Las Cannon and 2 Las Cannon armour plates/covers on eBay yesterday and ordered them. Assuming they turn up all I need now is one Land Raider Las Cannon and one sponson optic/sensor, and I can replace that with a couple of wires and say it was shot off if need be. Looking for donations or trades if anyone has those 2 parts?
1) a large ziplock bag means you won’t have to go and bag a bucket load of dettol. 2) if you airbrush it shouldn’t be an issue if the previous painter didn’t blob it on with a house brush, otherwise you’ll be staring at brushmarks forever 😉 3) Vallejo GC was made to replace the old citadel paints, then GW decided to go another way. The dakka paint list will show you the comparable version and they are an exact colour match to the old GW paint range. Go for your guns 4) cork and litter is your best bet… Read more »
God damn it! I had a whole response typed out and then I clicked that link and it didn’t open up a new window. Can we please get that changed. Grrr! Now what had I said?
1) I hadn’t thought of that. Isn’t it messy? Is there any danger of the Dettol eating through the bag? Have you done this yourself? 2) There are some brush marks. I’m hoping its not too bad and I can airbrush over the top. I’ll have to look closer. 3)I own the Agrax (Who doesn’t?) and there’s a conversion for 2 of the paints, but not for Russ Grey. 4) Thats what I was thinking. I’ve 23+ bases to work with so I guess I can experiment and see what works. I got my snow set from an AssetDrop box.… Read more »
I had no problem with the zip lock I used, but I would test it first if I was you. The kind you can buy to store soup in the freezer are big enough and robust to prevent accidental dripping. Sombre grey and wolf grey are the two they made to match the original paints, I have no idea what colours GW use now, they seem to be more like Codex grey than the classic space wolf blue greys, but if classic is what you’re after then that’s the pair. Leave the gun question with me, I have tubing here… Read more »
My housemate had a job for a water company taking samples. When he left he forgot to return a a fair amount of their ziplock bags. I believe he has stored soup in them before (I thought he was a crazy person for doing so when he has tupperware, but you do it too?). They should be up to the task. As for colours, I like the icy blue I see these days. Not the most exciting colour, but it works well with the wintry bases they get put on. I’m open to ideas though, at least until I start… Read more »
Biostrip is the best
https://www.amazon.co.uk/l/7187918031
Maybe, but the issue was the application, not the chemical. I can also get Dettol with my food shopping. Not sure about Biostrip. I might give it a try one day, but I’ve never had any issues with Dettol.
With the biostrip you can just paint it on. Leave a couple hours and it should get rid of all the paint with a bit of help from an old toothbrush Doesn’t stink and is water soluble
Now that’s interesting. Does it drip and stain the surrounding area?
It comes in a plastic tub. I use in an old metal tray to stand the figures on when coated and then just clean them under the tap in the bathroom. Of course it will strip any paint it drips on
I’ve used it on plastic ,metal and resin with no I’ll effects
Always good to know!
If your paint stripping, I’d recommend using Methylated Spirits as not only are they a lot cheaper and easy to buy in bulk than Dettol (you can buy 500ml or 1 Litre bottles from your DIY store in the decorating section for a few £) but they don’t turn the acrylic paint into a gloopy mess. I’ve used both methods and the biggest issue with Dettol is that yes it breaks down the paint but it essentially becomes a liquid plastic and will gunk up your brush, your tub and the model fine details. With Methylated spirits it actually makes… Read more »
Cheers. I will watch that video when I’m not at work (Or at work alone!). Any issues with plastics or resins etc dissolving? Anything else to be wary of?
I’ve not had any problems with plastics, resin or metal minis – The only thing to bear in mind is that methylated spirits are flammable so avoid naked flames!
I’ve used various types of plastic containers for storing and soaking models without any problems – As methylated spirits are used to clean decorating/diy paint brushes they only react with paint rather than the metal, wood or plastic of the brush making them ideal for dissolving old paint jobs.
If its so good and cheap then why don’t people discuss this when stripping paint off models? All I usually hear is Dettol, Simple Green and Biostrip. Does it have a down side, or is that under 16s (Our supposed standard demographic) might not be able to buy legally it? I just assumed it was no good or damagd the models.
I honestly don’t know – Previously I’d always seen Dettol used and used it myself but found the “gloop” a real downside to dealing with it. I then tried a dedicated paint stripper from AK interactive and that was good but again had a similar gloopy residue to deal with. I think your right to an extent in that Dettol is more likely to be available in the home and safer to use for the younger demographic so its much easier to recommend than spirits. I watched the video from Luke and was very surprised but I trialed a selection… Read more »
I’ll have to try it some time. If there’s no risk, and no gloop/black bits hiding in crevasses and there’s no issues with it taking paint afterwards (after a wash), then it sounds great.
Just watched the video. Seems promising. I couldn’t find his follow up video on using an ultrasonic cleaner. I have one but I’m concerned about cleaning my airbrush in it afterwards. Letting the meths evaporate and then giving it a rinse should be more than enough to keep the seals safe, right?