This topic contains 4,575 replies, has 346 voices, and was last updated by 
blipvertus 16 hours, 27 minutes ago.
-
Posting for our friends at wingsmoothpainting.com showing the first of the studio painted pieces. The Arc Mage for the tower faction!
Learn more about the game itself on the project here
Inspired by John’s vlog, I’ve been doing lots of assembling and priming on my Nighthaunts, which isn’t very exciting. However I did decide to take one model to (almost) finished. Just need to dull down the metal a bit more, possibly some white highlights on the skull / arms and a bit of flock on the base.
Love this walker. Not sure which booster he’s from. The newspaper is from a free download pdf online.
I need some help and advice please!!
I’ve been plugging away on a project painting some 15mm Fallschirmjager and have reached the point where the base colour is applied and I’ve painted on some dip to get the shading. I have then sprayed the models with a matt varnish that I have used before without problems. However, this time, perhaps due to the heat or the humidity, it has left a nasty speckle, snowy look on a number of the models. It won’t dust off but looks awful as you can see from the picture.
I could try another layer of matt varnish? I don’t want to apply dip again as I think this will be too much shading. I’ve thought about applying a thin wash of the same colour as the underlying base colour? I’d rather not repaint the models but are there any other ideas?
Feel free to comment on the project rather than cluttering up this thread.
75th Anniversary of Battle of Monte Cassino and Northern Italy (Army Build)
I got some more pieces done for Wolsung, including this lovely Zitrone Dime. More pictures are on the Project Blog- https://www.beastsofwar.com/project/1223909/
Also finished some more bookshelves from my Mantic Terrain Crate. More pictures are on that Project Blog- https://www.beastsofwar.com/project/1241836/
Been doing a couple of things lately which are a bit different. The first is putting together this Paul Bonner inspired Troll by Limbo Miniatures…
…and I’m going for a look which features plenty of blue skin to contrast with the darker clothing. It might take a while for me to get this one finished but I’m looking forward to it. And yes, I did purposefully give him curled horns to make him look a little different…and I wanted to see how it turns out on the final piece haha.
I have also been creating some dungeons for my group as I teach some new people how to play Dungeons & Dragons.
It is certainly not painting, but it has been a nice creative outlet to sit down and come up with some cool dungeon designs. It’s also refreshing to not have to worry about painting any miniatures!
Mad rush as usual, but some photos of work in progress, picked up Baneblade of ebay for less than half price new, missing a laser barrel and smoke launcher, it had a basic camo job that I hated and didnt match any of the other stuff I’d done fo Steel legion.As could not get a laser barrel to match, replaced both wing lasers with cut down sponson lasers from predator, and got replacement smoke dis penser. Un stuck all.the turrets, replacing the pegs with ones that allowed turret removal for painting.
Re-coated the hull with a darkened version of the catchacan green, followed by anthrax eartkshade allover wash. Dru brushed over top with catchacan green again, then a very old Imperial Green, and camo dry brush with Baneblade Brown.
Sterting on detail work and have to redo crew figure.
Finally finished my Morticians Guild. The ground was done using @janus1004 ‘s “clean dirt” method. I like it. Dirt is finer in grain size than sand, and has a much thinner layer, making it less of an issue for placing around feet, if you are concerned about burring toes. Janus, if you’re reading this I’d love a full breakdown on the paints you use on the ground and the rocks. I didn’t preshade all these bases and I wish I had. The ones I had took a quick coat of VGA Earth well with enough shade variation. I ended up putting down a few coats and then covering with Agrax to restore shading while keeping all the bases looking the same. They all got a drybrush of Menoth White Base after. It works, but its less natural than your bases appear.
At a final count I think I have used 6 different shades of white and 9 different shades of black on the models. My 2 main blacks were an attempt at copying @volleyfireandy ‘s work over here: https://www.beastsofwar.com/project/1222276/#snav . He had better success than me, but it was a good learning experience and something I’ll try again.
Ball (Obviously, I hope)
Cosset
Dirge
Ghast
Graves
Obulus
Silence
In the Hobby Hangout they commented on me painting the bright colours first. There were two reasons for this:
1. The dark colour for under them was in the post
2. If I painted the dark colours first I’d go “over the lines” and then have to bring it back up to get the colours to be vibrant again. Whereas if I paint the yellows and greens first, the blacks will easily obscure any overspill and I’ll be forced to be a lot more careful when working around them later.
Also, milk bottle tops are king! Don’t knock them. I can drill in to them, cut in to them, glue things to them, paint over them. None of it matters and they take it and I can always get more easily. They are the right size for holding and they are bigger than a standard 28/30mm base and the same size as a 40mm base. Models remain attached to them just through pinning. I usually don’t even need any glue, but occasionally a little PVA on the underside holds the heavier models in place. They can also be used to test new basing ideas as they are similar in appearance and size.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
