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[unofficial weekender] Hush… be quiet… I think I smell something!

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This topic contains 74 replies, has 14 voices, and was last updated by  sundancer 4 years, 5 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 75 total)
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  • #1535869

    irredeemable
    3742xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Hails all,

    Apologies for being two days late to the party. Had a crazy week after my cat escaped through a window at the Vet’s on the far side of town. Took us two and a half days of constant searching before we found him. I put up posts on the local Facebook groups and had multiple sightings around an area two miles from the vet, which we searched and every housing estate in between. I eventually found him about ten houses from the building he escaped from… No complaints though, just relieved to have him back.

    Pledge this weekend is to get some work done on my Techpriest Dominus. He’s already had the yellows airbrushed on and some washes applied. His arms got a blast of Iron Hands Steel as well to give me a basecoat to work from and I’ve blacked in all the areas that will be metal on the main body as I don’t like painting metallic colours over yellow.

    IMG_20200607_104042

    A shot of the progress on my army so far.

    IMG_20200601_233101 1

    Questions:

    1. Weather here has been really good but yesterday got a bit colder.

    2. Nope, I suck at multitasking. I’d end up painting a burger and grilling a mini.

    3. Assuming we’re not counting porn sites, just Netflix and Amazon Prime. I’ve considered Disney+ and I like the look of the new HBO one (not available here yet though) but considering I also get Spotify and a few other things, those charges can really start to stack up in a month.

    @robert

    Blackstone Fortress is top of my to-do list once I finish my Admech army. After painting a set colour palette for so long it’ll be nice to play with paint again and not worry about everything matching. Red plastic is horrible on the eyes, I had the same problems with Space Hulk. Those Celts look great.

    @blinky465

    Had the exact same issues with Army Painter sprays. Thankfully I only destroyed some test models but no amount of shaking could get a smooth finish. I use GW sprays for everything, need a good shake but no problems once they get that.

    @horati0nosebl0wer

    Love that base mate, I always say it but I really need to put more work into my basing.

    @crazyredcoat

    Have you tried just thinning with water? I generally only use medium if I’m trying to turn something into a wash or if I’m fighting with a particularly awkward airbrush mix.

    @limburger

    Covid has been playing havoc with deliveries. I’m waiting on several deliveries for weeks now.

    @evilstu

    That army’s looking amazing, any close-up shots?

    Finish with music…

     

    #1535877

    sundancer
    42900xp
    Cult of Games Member

    I feel I must emphasis this every now and again: no one needs to apologize to anybody if the participation in the forum isn’t what they think it should be. This is a hobby space. We do hobby at our own pace. No rush, no worry. It’s done when it’s done. If you want to share we appreciate, if you don’t or can’t find the time (or the forum is acting up again) then that is ok too. You’re welcome back any time. 🙂 Happy Sunday!

    #1536020

    m30wm1x
    2318xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Happy Sunday all. Hope everyone’s made good hobby progress or had fun in the real world instead!

    @robert Great work on the sheilds, where’d you get the decals from. Cloaks are cracking too and damn that tartan’s nice.

    @crazyredcoat Very nice job on the tommy. Is he for Bolt Action? I started doing WW2 in 28mm, but seeing as I’ll end up buying and painting both sides 15mm just looked a bit cheaper.

    @horati0nosebl0wer Thanks very much. I usually use tufts to mark squads and because I was aiming for D-day, thought poppies were a nice touch. Plus, seeing as I’ve gone to the arse-ache of making decals so it’s got my grandad’s right unit I should at least spend a few minutes making the bases nice.

    @irredeemable That yellow’s really good, it’s been a bastard to get smooth for me. Are you thinking of getting the new mech flyers?

    Finally got the decals to work. Started with a massive failure rate but got most to work in the end. In 15mm an A4 sheet would do a whole army group so there’s not an issue with wasting some, took HOURS to get finished and I didn’t bother with the bridge weights as they’re on a white background, I’d never get them cut out.

    Also, store your paints in a cool dark place.

    IMG_20200606_171841

    IMG_20200607_152011

    IMG_20200605_155313

    #1536086

    blinky465
    17027xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Ooooh decals. Print yourself or pre-bought? I’ve been toying with the idea of some print-at-home decals but given how many people say they have a nightmare with actual, proper, shop-bought water-slide decals, I’m a bit loathed to waste my money! Are you using anything to set them or soften them? Does the clear part of a decal appear shiny on the model or does it go away with a spot of matt varnish?

    #1536148

    crazyredcoat
    Participant
    13642xp

    @horati0nosebl0wer Thanks for the kind words! The Battle Bowlers with the camo strips are very odd looking things until they are painted. 😛

    @irredeemable The only reason I haven’t tried water is because the Contrast paints themselves work a little differently and thinning too much with water may leave the finish patchy and that’s not what I was wanting for a final look. If I was using it across stone, or something, that would be left out in the elements then I’d be down with testing it, but Stens tend to loos their finish along edges where they’re handled.

    @m30wm1x Thanks for the praise! He is for Bolt Action. I have a fairly sizable collection of British and Allied minis around, but I also have a full army of Germans, too. I am more used to the scale in 28mm and it allows me better ability to really dig into technical uniform and marking details that I love. I deff want to get some 15mm stuff done at some point, though. I have a bunch of the older stuff lying around that was given to me by someone, but I haven’t started on it, yet.

    With the good Sergeant finished, I have moved on to my Odin mini. My project has a picture of the first few layers done, but I’m hoping to have more done soon, then perhaps I can move onto a different project. I should be doing other stuff, but I just don’t feel like it right now… 😛

    Have some music!

    #1536232

    crazyredcoat
    Participant
    13642xp

    Odin is done! I need to leave the basing paint to cure overnight, but here’s the mini sans basing.

    20200607_215202

    20200607_215230

    Once the base is done I’ll take some new pics and upload to my project.

    #1536287

    sundancer
    42900xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Nice work… but a bit small for a god…. or is it 6mm? 😉

    #1536501

    blinky465
    17027xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Glow in the dark, UV, neon paint. Is this available through store.ontabletop.com? I can’t find it and with limited hobby funds this month, I want to throw it in the right direction. @warzan @lloyd @dignity are you selling neon/uv paints ?

    #1536506

    blinky465
    17027xp
    Cult of Games Member

    “Faces and bases” said Lloyd this weekend. As if that’s what you needed for a nice mini.

    Well, in recent months I’ve got over my fear of painting eyes and actually look forward to painting faces (I tend to do them first now, instead of leave them ’til the end, then end up paralysed with the fear of messing up the paint job to date).

    But bases? Surely plain black disks suffice, if the rest of the mini is good enough? I can’t be arsed with all that gluing and sand and then sticking it all back on when it falls off mid-drybrush – plain black disks for me! Then I found some bases on thingiverse and learned how to slice my own shapes from them in Blender, and had a go at some base “toppers” this weekend to see how they’d look. Obviously it’d be far quicker and easier than “traditional” basing.

    Image1

    They’re not even primed yet, but I’m beginning to think @lloyd may have had a point. They look awesome already!

     

    #1536510

    m30wm1x
    2318xp
    Cult of Games Member

    @evilstu This is me finally starting FoW. I’ve been playing Tanks for a while and finally got started after getting hit the beach for Xmas last.

    @blinky465

    https://store.ontabletop.com/product-category/painting-modelling/?filter_brand=green-stuff-world&filter_paint-type=fluorescent

    The decals are mostly ones I’ve made on the carriers, the earlier ones I did on the tanks are the clear backed ones from the box. I’ll try not to go on too long about this. It’s better for both to put decals on to a satin or gloss varnished surface and get a box of fresh scalple blades for clean cuts. Decals that you buy are probably going to be easier but may well be on a thicker backing that will be clear and slightly larger than the image. I don’t have it, but decalfix will melt away the backing to nothing.

    IMG_20200608_151545

    If you are going to make them you buy either clear or white water-slide sheets, they are pretty thin and have left no raised edge, unlike the box ones. Now it’s a bit of a steep learning curve but printing wasn’t a problem, with the caviat that no home printer has a white ink cartridge, you might be able to get them done at a pro-printers but then if it’s toner not ink that’s a different sort of sheet. So the printed decals are on a white backing sheet, they need sealing. There’s a proper spray for this, but a few good, light coats of varnish does the job. Too much at once will lift the ink, let them set for a good 12hrs.

    IMG_20200607_183206

    One they’re cured cut out a decal with a good couple mm border and score around the edge of the image, not all the way through the backing paper. I was extra careful and painted water on the back of the paper then lifted the corner of the decal with a scalple, if some of the paper comes with lay it flat and put a bit more water on the back.

    IMG_20200607_152011(1)

    Either type of decal I just brush a drop of water of the surface, lay the decal on top and move into place using a slightly damp brush. If they get folded beyond use just brush off, give the surface a brush down with clean water, let dry and start again. When they’re in place dry the brush and wick away any excess water, then I put a drop of any paint medium on just to get a bit of hold, let dry and then give a brush of varnish over top. With the printed ones I went back in and painted over any bits of white showing with the armor colour. Then for both a bit of the base colour mixed with some ivory was sponge chipped over and my weathering and washes is continued.

    IMG_20200608_151616

    IMG_20200608_012604

    #1536525

    blinky465
    17027xp
    Cult of Games Member

    @m30wm1x – thanks for such a detailed explanation! I might just give decals a try; the finished result you get looks great.

    In other news, I finally got my internet fixed this weekend-  I’ve been trying for *weeks* to get an 8Gb download of Android Studio to complete (so I can compile from Unity to make an app on my phone). This weekend *I finally did it!*

    I’m hoping that at least one person will be delighted to hear I finally managed to compile an app onto my phone and test it out this morning. Just a couple of little niggles to iron out and I’ll be able to put it up online for download (though not yet on the Play Store, so side-loading only while it’s going through beta testing!)

     

    #1536550

    crazyredcoat
    Participant
    13642xp

    @m30wm1x It looked like we were doing the same unit for a sec, but those look like Divisional HQ badges…then I remember that FoW is a MUCH larger scale of game…even if it is a much smaller scale of mini. 😛

    #1536556

    m30wm1x
    2318xp
    Cult of Games Member

    @blinky465 Congrats on the app progress. As for the decals, it is a bit of a faff, but for about £15 I picked up 20 a4 sheets which should last a lifetime. If you don’t mind putting in some time and a bit of frustration it works and has some massive potential, whole billboards or custom tank pinups.

    @crazyredcoat The British for FoW are the 50th infantry and 7th armoured divisions with the types of units getting markings for their different battalions. My grandad’s served in WW2 and one was in the DLI. The germans that’ll be getting done next will be a bit more ‘inspired by’ than ‘based on’ historical units from the NWE campaign at the time.

    #1536572

    crazyredcoat
    Participant
    13642xp

    @m30wm1x I’m doing the 1st Battalion of the Royal Hampshires, also in the 50th. Similar, but slightly round-about reason. My Great Great Grandad served in the Middlesex Regiment in the 2nd Boer War and the First World War, however the Middlesex served in Italy, I believe, and I wanted to start with NW Europe, so I did the Royal Hampshires because the two of them merged in one of the multitudinous reforms into the Princess of Wales’ Royal Regiment…which I actually applied to join myself once upon a time… I’m going for the Panzer Lehr Division for my Germans, though I have always been intrigued by the Luftwaffe Feld Divisions…though never 100% found a way to place them in France…

     

    Edit: I just looked it up and the 1st Battalion of the Middlesex were at Hong Kong (a.k.a. Bad Times) and they existed as MG Battalions in the 51st (Highland) and 43rd (Wessex) Infantry Divisions, which is why I didn’t do them; MG Battalions don’t exactly fit into standard Bolt Action organisations… Maybe I could do a work-around in future, though…

    Also music.

    #1536706

    Ok, I’ll now unveil my project that I’ve been tooling around with on the back end of things. I’m probably about halfway into it as I am waiting for some foliage in scale (back ordered to some time in the future). I know that the basing is mostly done for what I can work on and now I begin the process of painting the figure.

    Marumba Marumba! Jungle jungle jungle!

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