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Texture and rolling pin basing

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This topic contains 36 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  utherdracus 5 years ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 37 total)
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  • #1454287

    collins
    16354xp
    Cult of Games Member

    A thought I’ve had is that I could 3D print the bottom 3mm of the base (files on thingiverse) and then sculpt on top of it. Hmm the possibilities are endless!

    #1454296

    shingen
    13941xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Your textures look good and if you have a 3d printer handy it is definitely way to go. You could even 3d print a ‘cookie cutter’ thingy shaped to fot your wired base shape.

    BTW what kind of issues did you have with macaroni mashine?

    #1454310

    collins
    16354xp
    Cult of Games Member

    mostly the milliput being ridiculously sticky/tacky and gunking it up. the plastercine will most likely solve that though. The DAS didnt like being forced though as it doesn’t have the elastic qualities without PVA so would tear at the edges reducing the overall useful area afterwards.

    #1454314

    mbdeyes
    Participant
    655xp

    I use the pasta machine primarily on polymer clays (Femo, Sculpy, etc.).
    I mentioned this method previously, but Greenstuff World has videos detailing how you can roll the polymer clay right onto their mdf bases and stick the whole thing in the oven. Unlike plastics, the wood base won’t burn or melt at the temperature required for the polymer clay to cure.
    The MDF bases are a bit thinner than the average plastic base as well.

    There are other videos on using Milliput, Green Stuff, etc.

    #1454332

    shingen
    13941xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Well I don’t have any experience with polymers so can’t say amthing.

    As for miliput it is sticky for sure, and humidity adds stickiness (never use any water near miliput you want to shape).

    With the machine, you need to cover it’s pins with powder or vaseline.  Sometimes it may be good to let miliput set a bit (cool down at least), before putting it between pins as it may still have some moist from your hands.

    EDIT:

    Sorry about spelling, I’m on my phone and my myfingers seem to be to fat.

    #1454334

    mbdeyes
    Participant
    655xp

    It’s interesting. GSW says you can make Milliput smoother by applying water.
    But if that’s the case, then it would stand to reason that it does react with water and changes the consistency, etc.

    #1454345

    collins
    16354xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Yeah i watched a few of those videos on lunch today. Still I’m just documenting my experiences. When the plaster one arrives ill put it through the pasta machine with and without vaseline just for interests sake.

    #1454347

    mbdeyes
    Participant
    655xp

    I’m enjoying this thread and the documentation.

    GSW has ‘cookie cutters’ including round, square, and oval, and used for cutting different types of clay into the proper base size. For instance, I have the round ones and they range from 20mm to 60mm. That seems to work well.

    They also have silicone molds so you can pour your own bases using resin, etc.

    #1454349

    shingen
    13941xp
    Cult of Games Member

    This is post I wrote a couple of hours ago but forgot to tap ‘submit’…

    Miliput dissolves in water and creates kind of gely/sticky paste on surface.

    Sure you can smooth it this way, it works wonders in patching holes in some inaccessible crevices on minis/models where you couldn’t sand it down.

    #1454350

    mbdeyes
    Participant
    655xp

    Sounds like it would be a pasty mess though.

    #1454351

    shingen
    13941xp
    Cult of Games Member

    Yes, but easy to clean with wet brush.

    #1454364

    collins
    16354xp
    Cult of Games Member

    I noticed that when cleaning the milliput mess off one roller last night. Went milky and granular. Can see how it would be useful for filling some gaps.

    #1454366

    avernos
    Keymaster
    33947xp

    yeah it’s why I favour putt putt in place of any of the stuffs for gap filling, it’s just superior in every way to make a seamless join. If you do mix plastercine you can mix up to 50:50 with your putty, but the more you add the softer it becomes so some experimentation is required to find what is suitable for you. With plastic minis it should be grand, metal needs a bit less mixed in

     

    #1454367

    mbdeyes
    Participant
    655xp

    Slightly off topic but related, I picked up Vallejo’s Plastic Putty recently for gap filling. I’ve seen other hobbiests complain that it leaves a chalky mess that doesn’t get in the gap… honestly, they must be doing something wrong. I’ve had no issues with it at all.
    Much better than either Green Stuff or Liquid Green stuff… but only really useful for gap filling.
    Has a texture like toothpaste and comes in one of their dropper bottles. I just used a hobby knife or a sculpting tool to scrape it into the gaps and it was great.

    #1454371

    avernos
    Keymaster
    33947xp

    I love plastic putty, it’s marble dust in a medium so I tend to leave it over night to completely cure, if you start poking at it early it can be rubbery, but after that it’s great. I tend to use it on quick fills

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