Liquid Greenstuff Alternative

[amachan 25657xp 0]

Hi everyone,

I have a problem with liquid greenstuff. I like it when it’s nice and liquid, but 2 minutes later (not literally) the entire pot has dried out and I have to buy a new one before I used even a quarter of it. So I’m looking for an alternative. I know someone on one of the bootcamps had a plastic glue mix thing, which would be good, but I tend to work mostly with metal or resin miniatures with some occasional plastic thrown in between. I don’t think that will work so well on resin or metal, maybe it would, correct me if I’m wrong. So I’ve been looking at Vallejo’s Plastic Putty, but due to it having plastic in its name I’m not sure it will work on metal or resin. If anyone has any experience with the plastic putty can you let me know? Or alternatively if anyone knows a better liquid-like putty to use for this application, please let me know.

[avernosKeymaster 33946xp 2]

I love vallejo’s plastic putty. It’s actually marble dust in a suspension, squeeze it in, tidy it up with a damp brush or sponge and let it cure. I prefer to leave it over night. you can go back in and carve or file it afterwards.

If that’s too long then look for squadron green putty, it’s more or less liquid green stuff but in an artists paint style metal tube, unlike the GW made to dry your paints out pot.

And of course if you don’t mind being messy I find the best of all is still humble milliputt. you can thin it right down with water to a brush on consistency that can be painted on to remove pitting, or add plasticine to give you a slightly softer material, as well as mixing it as per instructions for a material that can be filed, carved, drilled and licked. (we do not recommend licking milliputt)

Hope that helps a bit

[amachan 25657xp 1]

Thanks, I don’t have an issue with longer drying times and will give Vallejo’s Plastic Putty a shot.

[maledrakhParticipant 11996xp 4]

I heartily recommend plastic putty by vallejo for gapfilling and such on miniatures in all materials. I have not had any problems using it on both metal, plastic, pvc and resin minis.

Be aware that it comes in both squeezy tube and standard dropper bottles.

I prefer  the thin-tipped squeezy tubes, which lets me apply the putty directly in the gaps or whatever on the miniatures, not needing to go via another implement. A wet fingertip works well to smooth out the putty, as it is rather “thin” and “wet” before it sets. As it is so thin, it does not take to scultpting very well. When dry it can be carved, sanded etc.

 

[turbocoolerParticipant 4103xp 2]

Another recommendation for Vallejo Plastic Putty

[a27cromwell 3185xp 1]

While I do love VPP for gap filling and I have my own home made stuff , which is   soft plastic bits melted in Tamiya thin liquid glue , another great gap filler , although a touch stinky . For giving that cast rough texture to plastic , nothing works better than LGS   Just paint on , then stipple . Its also  great for “painting ” on missing  uniform pockets and other clothing  details on minis . The problem is the green stuff doesn’t stay liquid . I have tried adding water to a small glob of VPP  so I could brush it on , but wasn’t satisfied with the results , I think I might have to sacrifice half a tube or so trying out  different blends , then painting and  texturing the bottoms of a few kits for practice

[amachan 25657xp 0]

My question is if the home made stuff does work well on resin or metal since those are the most commonly used materials in miniatures that I get?

[a27cromwell 3185xp 0]

Yes the plastic goop works great on plastic , resin and metal figures , I used it on all 3 types to glue on arms ( plastic to metal ) , fill in gaps and glue to bases . The trick is getting the right mix of plastic to glue , not too thick or too runny . I use Testors or Tamiya ( white cap ) liquid glue in that small square bottle with the brush . Wait till you have about 1/4 inch of liquid left and then add small ( 1/8 inch size ) pieces of plastic . I have found that the Plastuct white plastic or the soft Bolt Action grey plastic figure sprue  works the best . Add enough small pieces to cover the liquid , close cap , let sit . Check it the next day , if too runny add some more plastic . Better to add too little than too much . Since its mostly melted plastic , when dry it sets up hard and can be sanded  like all plastics , I’ve used it to “glue ” metal figures to plastic bases , just goop it under their feet , when dry , cut /sand away any extra . Also great for adding texture to bases , splash of goop , add a stone from the garden , your set . Of course its best to practice on a few old pieces to start with just in case …. Word of warning , the fumes are pretty nasty and probably flammable   so take appropriate measures

[maledrakhParticipant 11996xp 0]

@a27cromwell, that plastic glue gunk solution sounds like it might have really toxic fumes as plastic glue is a rather strong solvent; and you are deliberately dissolving plastic pieces in it, which should yield rather more  fumes than just gluing some bits together would do.

I know that I for one go a bit woozy in the head after using plastic glue more than a few minutes at a time.

If is there an X-symbol or other hazard symbol on the tube you might want to consider using a gas mask with organic vapour filters when working with that, or at least have some good ventilation going.

 

 

[a27cromwell 3185xp 0]

Very true  maledrakh  . Its not the safest of concoctions  , but then so much of our  hobby isn’t safe . Xacto blades , ( we’ve all got a good xacto blade bloodletting story  and the scar to prove it don’t we ) , 2 part resins ,  razor saws , various glues , super of otherwise , various paints and thinners , and I can’t even fathom whats in the crackle effect basing stuff or the Vallejo mud ( stinky stuff ) . But if I wanted safe , I’ld build Lego , lol . The glue is poisonous and flammable  and the plastic , although much safer than the stuff we stretched over candles back in the 1970s , still isn’t good for you to inhale the fumes . Just use with caution , keep away from flames ,( but you shouldn’t be smoking in the house anyway ), and you need good ventilation .   Its not something I would let my grandson try to make or use on his own , he’s 9 , but with super vision it should be ok

[Author]

Posts