Gerry Can Show You How To Work With PVC
May 21, 2020 by avernos
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On Dreadball and Deadzone stuff, I used a brass brush over the bits I had cleaned up and it worked really well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-Mini-Wire-Brush-Set/dp/B007R2H6UQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=rolson+wire+brush&qid=1590067008&sr=8-2 Pretty sure it is the brass brushes from these sets that I have.
lol
That’s some great tips I snapped a resin part what about a video on repairing damaged parts ? @avernos
interesting
it would probably end up being pin and fill, but I could do it if you want
yes a video would be great but the panel I snapped is too thin to pin was considering just patching it. A bit like the Shermans over the fuel tanks but any advice would be appreciated. @avernos
what was it that broke a thin flat piece or something with depth?
PVC miniatures are a nightmare! I try to avoid them like the plague. I bought a load of cheap Reaper minis a few years back and they’re really only good for the bin – weapons are bent and curled up, cleaning mould lines made rough pitted edges along them, and when you finally get them painted, the slightest pressure on them and the paint cracks and lifts and looks really ugly. On top of that I jumped onto Dreadball as soon as it was released – the quality of the sculpts on the goblin minis is dreadful; features that look… Read more »
There are some terrific pvc minis out there, like anything you get out what you put into them.
*whispers* I know people who don’t clean mouldlines off any of their minis
Noooooo, dont clean mouldlines
Great tips, just what I’ve needed lately ?
hmm, makes me think some thin would be good for my Reichbusters. It’s not a huge amount of mould lines,but still annoying.
you can also use candle light to clean up sanding.
I use boiling water straight out of the kettle, gets those bits flexible and back to shape really quickly. After a few minutes it isn’t nearly as effective. Curious why you specify not boiling water?
I haven’t heard of the plastic glue trick for blending rough areas, very handy. That bottle of plastic weld looks like it’s been in your collection for quite a while, but I’ll see if I can find it or the extra thin equivalent. Be useful for cleaning up my v1 deadzone plague models.
Thanks Gerry. #deadzoneislife
I use boiling water too to straighten plastics.
Tamiya Extra Thin https://arcanesceneryandmodels.co.uk/shop/tamiya-extra-thin-cement-quick-setting-polystyrene-glue-for-kits-40mls-bottle-87182/
it doesn’t have to be boiling and in the case of some of the pvc/abs plastics made from softer compounds like the first reaper bone it can be detrimental.
The main reason I specify it though is someone I know had heard about it and literally put them into a pot on a cooker in a rolling boil, it doesn’t need to be anywhere near that hot.
it has but that’s because I refill it with the chemical EMA are still going strong and it’s readily available if you don’t live in a backwater like I do
oh right, yeah you definitely don’t need to leave them to simmer!
I’ve very little experience with Bones, only a couple in my collection. I’ll bear in mind that if the plastic is already quite flexible, go easy with the warming.
I found the same bottle of plastic weld on amazon, shipping from Yorkshire. It was the label design that I thought looked quite dated, but it’s exactly the same still. 🙂
I’ve shared the link in our mantic-biased hobby hangout discord group, should be very useful, thanks again Gerry.
you can buy it in larger amounts on fleabay, the active chemical is dichloromethane, or methylene chloride.
If you do buy in bulk obviously you get more for your money, but it’s an organic compound and will decay in direct sunlight. That’s why I decant it into an old brown bottle.
You could also wrap a smaller bottle in tinfoil or tape. It will become less effective over long periods of time because of this. But you’re talking years not months. Just don’t store it in direct sunlight
Good to know. I’ll put it in my lead lined safe, buried deep in the earth. That’s where the bad dice go. The bin is too good for them, they must never see the light of day ever again.
Great Gerry Can there @avernos and very useful, especially for all those Mantic Game games and the Conan Game.
Do you / can you use the plastic weld to smooth out layer lines on 3D printed models, or is acetone better suited to that task? Smoothing printed models might be a good subject for another Gerry Can video.
I’ll try in the morning, I have a few printed things sent home by warren for me to play with
great vid, thanks Gerry
just like to voice my opinion, restic is an abomination that should be erase from our timeline…. and that’s something considering or present day.
My TechTip for removing seams on plastic and metal models… Use the back of the Xacto knife blade. It works just as well as the sharp end. I save the sharp end for any trouble spot the back cannot handle. Cutting plastic arms and legs, etc is a great use for the sharp end. I use a 4″ jeweler’s saw with 3/0 or 4/0 blades to cut pewter. They are available at any small metals or jewelry working website. I recommend Rio Grande if you live in the states (I am not paid to plug this company). The jeweler’s saw… Read more »