Gerry Can Show You How To Apply Decals
January 28, 2020 by avernos
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I would totally listen to my beard scritching… but I can’t listen to my own voice
@avernos I think everyone hates hearing their own recorded voice (accept politicians and are they really human) one your accent comes out , I never here the Black Country accent in my head but….
Must be our brains edit out the sillier bits of our voice ( which alos explains the politician thing you have to have one)
It’s a little disturbing but somewhat admirable that a man would go so far in his pernicious punning as to have a t-shirt made to set the whole thing up. Well played, sir. Perhaps you need a hobby…
On the positive side, I express my gratitude sincerely for these hobby tips. I’ve been away from it so long, I spend a good bit of time on YouTube trying to remember how to do this or that. I am about to try Microscale products to put the 400 or transfers on my historicals’ shields…I may need a hobby after this. Thanks!
you’re quite welcome. I will do microset and microsol at some point. but they excel on uneven surfaces and even then I would still prepare the surface with a gloss varnish first. So I thought I’d build up.
Anything in particular you want to see ask away and I’ll see what I can manage
Ah! there was me just thinking you were being careful with the pennies!
Though with you wee men spending that was a silly thought.
useful tip Gerry i have only ever done microsol/set, but iam gonna try this for sure.
i dont listen to ASMR, but id giv it a try if you do a stream ;P
I hardly ever use sol or set, only if the surface is curved or irregular and the transfers won’t sit flat.
So I watched this video… and then needed some info on applying pigments and went along here and found your pigment video… with! the! same! truck! XD I giggled 😉
Carry on then.
(Still need to find a way to make the pigment powder not “disappear”)
seal it with Isopropyl alcohol first, drop it on from a pipette or a loaded brush. Once it’s dried varnish, you will still lose some but not as much as varnishing straight over it
I will order some “non drinky drinky” alcohol then and try next time. I did a reapply on the T-47 and used hairspray and that worked “sort of” XD Thank you great Can Of Hobbyknowledge
The only difference in the way you do it, and the way I do it is, I soak the transfer in a little bit of water on a saucer but it is the same end result. A very fine set of tweezers and a toothpick are also quite handy especially when it comes to numbers.
May I enquire what brand of gloss you used?
for this it was Army Painter, at home I either use vallejo or Klear floor polish, as I still have some left.
a great video @avernos I never considered how much the varnish can make to transfers.
Interesting, I have to say, I personally use Humbrol decalfix to do my decals. The decal can be fixed to any surface and it will remove the silvering. All I do is drop a tiny bit of decalfix onto the surface where I want it to go. The drop the decal which has been soaked in water on top then brush on decal fix over the top leave it. After a while it dissolves the carrier film leaving just the paint. You can the just varnish the model as required.
great little tip for decals! i think john may have done a vlog of using microsol on his marines or could possible been the imperial guard vlogs..
people tend to use decals as a afterthought and just throw them on at the end, which can make a great paint job look rubbish.
i like to put decals on and seal them so i can paint or add other details on top. even using decals and recolouring parts to very the look.
Another fantastic, informative video. I enjoyed this one as much as the others. I’ve always been a bit timid with using transfers in fear of the dreaded silvering, so am very grateful for this. A couple of questions if I may; is there a means to direct navigate to Gerry’s hobby encyclopedia, i.e. is there a playlist or some such means to find all Gerry’s tutorial content collated so I can ensure I’ve not missed any? Also, it would be great to see the process for application of a single transfer onto a model, with the weathering etc, so we… Read more »
I’m going to do a separate video on the decal softeners and fixers as they aren’t needed if the surface is perfectly flat, also some people seem to have gotten the idea that they are needed to blend the transfer in, which isn’t their job. So I’m looking for some irritating surfaces to apply them onto and then I’ll be using a couple of different types of transfer to show how they work.
I will look into creating a category specifically for Gerry’s tutorials so you can quickly find them all in one place 🙂 (the next tutorial is really cool!)
Annnnnnnd done! if you look on the left hand side of the page just above the comment section you’ll find a few related categories. There’s one called ‘Gerry Can’. Clicking that will give you a list of all of Gerry’s in depth tutorials. Each of Gerry’s tutorials going forward will be tagged with that category. 🙂
Another very helpful video.
I used to dunk my decals into water and then spent ages trying to fish them out. That was until I applied a bit of intelligence and thought of just wetting a sponge or cloth and the laying the decal onto it. My life was suddenly transformed from one of chasing decals round a pot of water to just simply sliding them off and quickly applying them.
Thanks @Avernos – been one of those techniques I’ve ben worried about trying for a while – the use of varnish layers to laminate makes a lot of sense for the decals, as well as setting you up for weathering sprays etc.
Would Gloss/satin base >> Decal >> straight to Matt top varnish work, or do you need to repeat the base varnish for any particular reason?
it’s been a while, but I think if you top coat matt you can see the outline of the decal still, likewise if you skip the bottom layer it does the same. It adds a step that can be a pain, but the end result is better protected and the finish is far superior.