Gerry Can Show You The Right White Glue To Use For The Job!
January 27, 2022 by avernos
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Great vid. I only ever use the evo because that is all I have near my town. I have heard of Elmer’s but I always thought it was just a brand of PVA. That’s why I love these kinds of vids.
a really interesting video Gerry of course your a bit behind the times as you can get external PVA glues now. have you tried a coat of PVA after the tacky glue to see if that improves survival of the pieces?
I mention the external glue in the video
I re-watched an yes you did I’ve never used/seen the yellow PVA does that work like ordinary glue or does it work differently with the external environment compliments Gerry?
works the same way but it’s not water-soluble like the white glue so you won’t be thinning it down. it does give an excellent bond but you’ll be using it neat so as long as the colour doesn’t put you off it’s useable
Thanks good to know Gerry.
EDCO? How old is that bottle?
Copydex is the same as the Elmers glue isnt it?. As much as I think its a rubber cement
no copydex is a latex, so it is a rubber cement, elmer’s is just a brand name PVA glue.
Good video, I didn’t know that some pvas have an added tacking agent.
I use two different pva glues. For basing and sealing I use the cheap Poundland glue. Does the job really well (and it only costs one pound). For terrain building and sticking tufts I’ve got an old bottle of pva glue from 4Ground. It’s much thicker and now, from your video, I suspect it has some added tack (which is good for keeping those tufts in place until the glue dries).
Great video. I’m currently using a tub of B&Q’s own brand “Diall” PVA, which has done a great job in sticking some of Kromlech’s HDF Frostgrave terrain together. I suspect it’s the equivalent of the Evostick.
Useful to know about the limitations of Hob-e-tac. I’ve got a bottle of that and was planning on using it to make some of my own trees, but will definitely seal them with PVA having watched this.
it’s good that you can “prune” your trees after you’ve made them or add more foilage to them if you need to. But afterwards it’s definitely required to seal them with something I didn’t with my initial run many moons ago and spent more time than enough cursing the constant shedding.
Great tutorial, very useful info. Have you got any thoughts/comments about spray adhesives at all? I’ve seen seen a few people recommend them for sticking foliage to tree armatures, but having watched this I wonder about the robustness of the finished thing.
I’ve tried it once, I think you need a good spray adhesive the one I tried was a cheap and it sprayed like a spiders web and didn’t give good coverage and didn’t hold well.
It’s definitely doable, but however you get the foilage on you need to seal it to save it.
Consider me warned. I’ve had a play with a pretty cheap spray adhesive to make a tree, and can definitely see what you mean about the webbing. But it looks to be hold the foliage well, at least for now, fingers crossed that I can seal it well enough!
Super useful! You pick up stuff about the glues as you use them, but really good to have it all laid out.
Just started using the Tacky PVA in little tubes which is handy for scenery builds where normal PVA isn’t ‘grabby enough’. They also have fast drying and extra grabby flavours, but not sure on how much difference there is between them. I suppose different strengths of ingredients.
So what is mode-podge? Is it just PVA that dries matt?
I don’t think Mod-podge is PVA based, but it is a mixture of glue and varnish, so you can use to to seal and finish as well as glue.
It comes with the usual varnish finishes, matt, satin, and gloss so it can be a one-stop. shop for water effects.
I prefer to keep my finishes separate from the gluing but I’m sure it has its benefits
Thank you Lord of Squirrels ?. Always something new to investigate ?.
Great vid Gerry, I swear by the pva that 4Ground sells, thick and sticky, works a treat. One thing I have found with pva basing is that the base needs to be primed. Sticking to raw plastic the pva will lift and come away. Having the prime paint layer to grip this doesn’t happen.
I tend to scuff or sand mine to give them something to key to
Cheers, Gerry! I’ve always thought that branded, ‘premium’ PVA was a big con, but I didn’t know about the tacky resin stuff they add to some of the types.
I bought a huge bottle of clear PVA from the Works one time and it refused to dry. One of my dioramas still has a little of that glue oozing around inside it somewhere to this day!
in some cases you will be paying for the name, but the more expensive stuff for tradesmen has a reason behind it at least.
I decant PVA into an old GW starter set PVA bottle because it is small and gives me a bit of control over where I apply it for basing. I can’t always remember which style I have loaded in there because I have had a mix of wood glue and crafting pound shop PVA over time. What I have found is that on occasion I have tried to speed up some drying by placing a mini on a radiator and the PVA didn’t like it and dried white and not clear. Is this something all pvas do or was I… Read more »