Chris Can Show You How To Light Up Your Miniatures
February 9, 2020 by crew
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Damn … I learned something about soldering today.
No one ever taught me that trick.
All I remember from learning to solder (ages ago) is not heating up the electronic bits too much or else they’d be destroyed.
The smd stuff didn’t exist at that time. We only had the big 5mm LEDs.
I’m astounded that @ludicryan managed to get so much coherent footage and edit it together in such a way I didn’t look like the bumbling, clueless idiot I came across as during filming! Thanks for having me over guys – would love to bring servos and robots and app-enabled stuff next time. Note to self, look to the camera, not the monitor screen so much next time… 😉
I have to put a little knitted Lance on the camera to stop me looking at the monitor 😀
Now you know what Ryan has to do with my footage, normally my filming is a train wreck
Warzans cock sock.?
the lad is a miracle worker!
Can confirm: you were a joy to edit and nowhere near as bad as you think!
wow. This is cool.
A great tutorial.
I better not get in to doing this because I still have not gotten any army of mine fully painted jet 🙂
But still it would be cool to do.
Nice video *but* being the German that I am: you’ve forgotten something important. The fumes from soldering aren’t really something you want to inhale. If you do soldering you need to do it in a well ventilated area or (what is even better) use a fume extractor. And if you want to safe your cutting mat from being burned get a silicone matt.
Now carry on. 😉
There was so much I forgot to mention! Yes, solder fumes are not good. No, I don’t use flux, but you can if you like (it’s unnecessary when using a rosin-core solder but crucial when hand-soldering other surface-mount parts, like microchips). Yes you can get leaded solder (which lets you run your soldering iron at a lower temperature) for personal use (you just can’t use it for things you want to sell in RoHS compliant regions) and lead-free solder needs a hotter iron. Strangely, lead-free solder tends to create more fumes (since it usually contains more rosin to help it… Read more »
No offence meant mate 🙂 Maybe one more important info would have been nice: where do you get your parts? I always struggle to find sources outside “cheap Chinese eBay sellers” like Big Clive does use
Not offended at all – just disappointed at myself for missing load of important stuff out (in fact, some of the very questions Ryan asked before we started!). Fleabay is great for bulk electronics, but you have to be prepared to wait a couple of weeks; in the UK we have Farnell, RS and RapidElectronics – though things like LEDs tend to come from my mate Matt who runs Komodo electronics on eBay (I call in on him, buy LEDs and swap ideas over a brew).
Dam, now that’s good.
SORCERY!!! BURN HERETIC BURN WITCH !!
A fabulous video and the glow through would be great for beasts like the balrog’s or chaos monster’s.
I cast some Necron bodies in white resin and put green LEDs inside them – they looked awesome, but my paintwork just didn’t do them justice (I painted the “ribs” and left the spaces between them to glow). A balrog would look great stuffed full of LEDs!
Ooh never thought necrons nice one.
Doing the eyes is hard work! Unless you can 3d-print a necron head (I couldn’t find a decent scuplt anywhere) I wouldn’t bother – had so many failures trying to cast a necron head, with that big jutting jaw they have! Obviously lighting the gun is a no-brainer, but glowing ribs do look impressive. To light two LEDs, you’ll need to use two batteries (either one on each LED or – for a slightly brighter effect – connect them, and the LEDs in series)
Cracking Job! @blinky465 🙂
The effect is so cool.
I’ve been wondering how I might mount UV LEDs in the base terrain to light up fluorescent paint highlights on a few models (KD:M monsters)… now I just might have to give it a try!?!
if you’re using multiple LEDs, it might be better to connect them to a single power source, instead of trying to stick a tiny battery to each one? I usually use a shift register and a microcontroller, but what might be really nice is to use hall effect sensors on each LED – so when your monster mini is placed close by (with a magnet in its base) it triggers the UV LED automagically….
really nice tutorial.
Would be fun to see larva effect bases with leds lighting in it.
Do you think you could get a led uplight effect from a base onto the bottom of a model. like hiding a led in the base of a ghost model to light up the bottom of the face etc. ?
Man if my vision was still amazing and I had some aptitude in electronics I’d totally do a way cool Drop Pod.
Well done!
Great tutorial, not sure I would brave enough to light a miniature but I might give it a go with a vehicle. Anyway great job, excellent work.
This be the devil’s work and I want no part of it.
Great stuff, never soldered in my life although I do own a soldering iron. I use it for burning bullet holes into plastic models. 🙂
Aaaargh! Scrilege! 😉
Good video Chris. The soldering technique was new to me as well.
Great tutorial!