VLOG: Tank War Fast Paint Project Part 17
October 24, 2017 by johnlyons
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looking well, I would have to say that I probably prefer the varnish application. As far as applying it myself, depending on what I’m doing I sometimes add it to washes, weathering and fixing all in one go, and you can see that in my cobblestone and dark age stone videos. I also use rubbing alcohol, it will go on like the spirit, but there is much less a chance of any paint damage, and if they were prevarnished then you should be completely fine. It’s not as solid a fix as others though so a finishing varnish would be… Read more »
as @avernos says, rubbing or isopropyl (tamiya thinners) alcohol works great, or make into a wash with water like @lloyd did with his dust vehicles a while back. In my experience water is a lot more forgiving given that you can reactivate and rework with a wet brush, but it doesnt look as vibrant and streaking doesnt look so good, where as alcohol sticks it down very well, but is very unforgiving if you want to rework. For application i find wetting a brush in either water or alchohol and painting the area you want to apply to works well,… Read more »
Also to set with alcohol i either fill a small spritz bottle and mist the model, or put some in the airbrush and mist that way, just do it ventilated otherwise you will end up drunk….
I work with alcochol but I do it with oil paints, you have plenty of yime to work with if you warnish model first. Pigment is great but oils save so much time.
I would go with the anti-shine if I had to pick one.
Question, could you not do a mix of the anti-shine with the decal-fix?
I would also say anti-shine. The decal fix seems to be a bit shiny which would be not the intended result, I guess.
I normally first coat with a matt varnish and then apply the pigments “dry” and after that another coat of varnish. The first one is to create a bit more texture where the pigment can attach to
Like also the middle one, but what i was hoping too see also was dirty tracks.. that will pop out the tanks alot more
I would say that from here they look good and if the anit-shine is easier that would be the way to go. The only concern for a beginner would be that it would be unforgiving if it isn’t set the way you want.
2 John! Love the series, thanks for everything. I’ve never applied ‘dry’ pigments, so a video of how you do the mixing and application would be appreciated, thanks.
Another vote for the quickshine, if you’re risking damage to previous work with the eco stuff aren’t you defeating the fast paint ethos? You’ll either waste time being over cautious and fiddling with the application or waste time fixing any damage it does. Plus you’re reusing the same product so no over complication or confusion with too many different products.
Shouldn’t rush my posting, that reads a bit harsh. Meant to express my appreciation that you have a strong theme going with the fast paint idea and you are maximising effect for the effort involved. Was starting to worry that you may wander off the theme and over complicate yourself.
Anti-shine looks best forme.
pass they all look good what about a mix for the units?
I’d have to say anti-shine as well, though I am wondering what the difference between that and liquitex matte medium would be.
Anti Shine
Anti Shine, it just looks right to me.