3 Colours Up: Magnetising Your Convergence Heavy Vector
July 2, 2015 by elromanozo
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A good tutorial, it makes the maximum use out of multipart kits like PP’s new Warjacks or GW’s larger minis like Dreadnoughts. One thing I would change though is to use spur point style drill bits rather than regular conical end bits. Spur point bits drill with a square draft meaning the base of the drilled hole is already flat, this allows the magnet to fit much better in the drilled hole as there is no gap below the edges in which it could wiggle. You can pick up a set of Titanium coated spur end bits from 0.5mm to… Read more »
Edit: Also the advantage of using a spur pint bit is that it is much easier to have the drilled hole aligned in the right position. With a conical ended bit there is a chance the drill position will shift slightly as the initial threads bite home, with a spur point the spur makes the initial hole exactly where you need it and the threads only bite once its fully home. I’ve been able to use 1mm diameter magnets in the palms of 28mm minis which have no room for shifting error only because the spur point gets the hole… Read more »
Thanks for the compliment, as well as the information !
I actually prefer conical bits for two reasons :
1) It’s more readily available, so it make for a more accessible tutorial
2) I use the extra space to put in some green stuff (or other putty) so that the magnet stays in place better (as I’ve found that super-glue gets brittle over time, especially if exposed to the sun or manipulated often).
But to each his own… And you’re right, there are times where conical bits can’t be used because the pieces are simply too thin, and you end up drilling right through.
try a small metal plate any shape for the magnet on the backpack to catch?
a nice video I don’t think I have the patients to do any of my models with them.
Oh, the backpack thing is purely an aesthetic choice on my part.
Also, anything but brass and pewter aren’t readily available for everyone in “small bits”, unless you’re ready to file and mangle actual nails, screws and bolts. This is rather heavier work than what’s needed here..
just giving you some options to get out of a bind probably an easier way any way Lol.
I may have the perfect way get a repair kit for glasses from a pound shop drill a tiny pilot hole then screw a screw in the hole for the magnet (plus) the screw may even blend in to the model? @elromanozo
Yes, could be interesting, especially on Khador or Cygnar models, but you have to be very careful about screwing it on straight… I’ve also had good results with upholstering nails hammered in, then cut to proper length.
very true the pilot hole should take the risk out of a squint screw.
As a novice on this topic I find these type of videos very useful. Thank-you.
My tip. I don’t mark the magnets as such. Instead I have small block of wood I drilled and stuck a few magnets into all with the same polarity. I use this not only as good temporary storage for magnets while you are working with them, so they don’t roll away under something or off the table. But also this works as my “marking”, bottom of stack is always stuck to main body of the model with the top side to arms, heads, turrets, etc. No need for physical pen mark, the wooden block embedded with magnets is always storing… Read more »