Spraycans? Awesome.
Far easier, quicker, cleaner, basically all round less hassle than a stupid airbrush.
(but only for painting – spraying varnish and you’re setting yourself up for a world of hurt with frosting and orange peel finishes – cough, Army Painter, cough).

MDF Terrain – how do you prepare it properly? You mean prime then paint? Yes, of course, always.
Or seal with watered down PVA then paint? (nah, who has time for that, when you can just blast it was a squirt from a Halford car paint spraycan – see above). Or just paint (using brushes) straight onto “raw” mdf? No way – that way madness lies!

Never done snow on terrain. Can’t help, sorry.

I’ve seen a few projects going up for Terrain October (what’s the official title again, I forget?)
I wasn’t going to bother, as I’d just printed a load of orks for Orktober.
But now I’m thinking I might join in after all, and make a nice diorama for them to stand on (that counts as terrain, right?)

Here’s your music link. I’ve been going to a few jam nights and listening to a lot of blues lately.
Don’t turn it off! Some of it is quite good.

This week’s pledge is to do September’s Raging Heroes print. October’s release included a “Nagash-like” model which required about 6 prints, but I thought “why not?”

I was doing so well with my year’s challenge then today I broke my 3D printer. FEP film life is so variable. I keep an excel sheet of all my 3D prints (I’m that sort of person). My first film for this printer lasted 30 prints, the second 80, then this one failed at 28. I foolishly ignored the warning signs (not 100% perfect prints) and then when it failed it got a hole and resin flowed on to the LCD screen. Now I need to replace the screen which means waiting a week or two for the part to arrive. FEP films are so cheap I need to remember to swap them every 20 prints or so and avoid these problems.

• Spraycans. Colour primer, varnish or sealer. What’s your take on them? – I have tons of coloured primers. I used them for my Mythic Battles: Pantheon paints to speed everything up, and since them haven’t used them. I usually just prime black or wraithbone these days. I don’t varnish unless they’re board game pieces that I’ll be handling a lot. Most of my other models are just for display so no varnish required.
• MDF Terrain: prepare it properly or just slap the paint on? – Never used MDF terrain.
• Snow on terrain: what do you like to use most for large pieces? – Never done a large snow terrain piece.

@sundancer and then sharing your findings, right?
(right….?)

In other news, I’ve very nearly been tempted by a Kickstarter.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kozz/dark-tomb-bloodthorn-island?ref=discovery&term=dark%20tomb
The play-through videos (of the original game, which you can also pledge for) look interesting; a proper-old-school no-messing-about dungeon crawler.

The new Kickstarter is just a variation on the original theme, but I quite like the co-op aspect of it and the small sized reveal-as-you-go map – it reminds me of those old computer games, where you’d move from room-to-room, fighting monsters. I quite fancy getting hold of it and then just scaling the map up and using minis instead of tiny wooden blocks. But that it plays so well even without minis suggests that the gameplay is pretty solid. About £35 gets you the original and new release which doesn’t seem unreasonable.

Has anyone played the original Dark Tomb? Any thoughts?

@gorram – I’ve also had problems with Army Painter spray cans; I loved the idea of colour-matched primers and bought about a dozen different colours. Almost all of them suffered the same problem – far to goopy and they obscured the details of every mini I put near them. I thought I was holding the minis too close so backed them off, but then the primer went speckled (I was clearly too far away).

Not sure where the rest of you guys are – and it probably won’t help @sundancer, with him being in Germanyland – but I’ve found here in the UK, Halfords matt black (paint not primer) and Halfords grey and Halfords white primers to be fantastic for priming/zenith highlighting. Even if you’re a bit heavy-handed with the spray, it seems to “shrink to fit” and makes every detail pop.

I’m a recent convert to slapchop painting and love Halfords paints – matt black base then zenith with grey and drybrush with white. Prior to slapchop I’d prime black and zenith straight to white. Halfords rattle can paints are just amazing.

What ever you do, don’t go near Army Painters’ “anti-shine” matt spray varnish.
Unless you want a frosty white miniature.
It’s dreadful stuff. I’ve started just brushing on W&N acrylic matt varnish from a big bottle I picked up at WHSmith. Works a treat.