Tiny Terrain for Tiny Heresy
Recommendations: 42
About the Project
A new project for the Terrain Challenge building more terrain for 6mm Epic Horus Heresy. See the rest of the project here. https://www.beastsofwar.com/project/1808405/
Related Genre: Science Fiction
Related Contest: TerrainFest 2023
This Project is Active
Painting and Basing
This is an older pic but it shows the ideal way to base them. First place the clumps of big rubble, I used a cork basing mix. This can be glued with normal PVA glue. Then I coated the entire base in PVA followed by Geek Gaming Scenics Desert Mix, basically anything with some big and small rocks in it will work, the goal is to break it up a bit and make it look like scattered rubble. The extra floors have a little PVA and sand where the floor meets the walls to hide the joints but also to give them a bit of bulk and not look so skinny.
Next I sprayed the entire thing with a black rattle can and went over it again with cheap black Acrylic from the local dollar shop. Again an older pic but I'm rushing to get this finished in time.
Okay now I'm actually painting the buildings from the project. First drybrush Army Painter Dungeon Grey, you can use a cheap Acrylic for terrain but they're too wet for my liking and don't drybrush well. Keep all you strokes going one way on the walls, this is important later.
Next a 50/50 of Grey and White, the best part about painting these is you don't pick anything out, gut blast the whole thing one colour. Go the opposite direction on the walls, notice how it makes interesting patterns of depth on the wall that add a sense of detail that just isn't possible at this scale. Even the broken ceilings get the same paintjob and different directions. 
Finish it off with a light but not too light drybrush of white. Once again change up the direction on the walls to create that depth look. 
The Process shown one beside the other.
The exact same thing is done for the other terrain pieces even the 3D Printed stuff.
The craters turned out well, they were a bit of an experiment but at this scale and considering they used about four squares of toilet paper I think they turned out well. The Black paint is still wet but I plan to give them a glossy varnish to make it look like a big pool of stagnant water. Game wise these are also a great way to block movement but not shooting. 
One advantage of the two wall buildings is that you can make area terrain on the field rather than scattering them around. 
Some miniatures for scale. A Sicaran sized hole full of water is pretty good for blocking terrain, this is teh smallest crater set that I've make, there's a massive crater that should stop even a Titan on my painting desk.
Marines for Scale, see the linked project in the description for more of them and the painted tanks when they're finished
Dawn of War inspired 3D Printed stuff fits in really well next to the old school cardboard I find. Thanks for reading the Hobby October Comp thing part of this project. Definitely something I'm going to keep updating as I finish it off.Basic Tutorial II
To make the walls cut some rectangles out of the card. I chose 60mm x 80mm for this project but mix it up a bit, big buildings are built the same way. After you cut the square cut a jagged line through it to make a bombed out ruin. This gives you two walls per piece.
These two pieces will work but not joined to one another so we need to make a filler wall.
Place the cut pieces of card at the edge of your square piece and mark it, using this mark cut a wall the same way as before beginning and ending it at those points. This helps the ruins look like previously intact buildings.
You can use either PVA or Super Glue to fix the card to the base, I've done both but to keep costs and items needed down decided to do these demonstrations with PVA.
Your buildings should have between two and four walls, if you make a four walled building make sure to add some kind of doorway. To keep it all simple I'm going to just make solid walls.
Glue down some of the offcuts to simulate fallen upper levels or the buildings floor showing through the rubble just to help break the ground up a little. I had an old cork drink coaster so I crumbled it up to make some more rubble for the same reason. Remember this is 6-8mm scale so those small pieces of cork are bigger than a Space Marine.
Another way to help make these look more like buildings is to take some of the offcuts and use them to hint at other levels that were destroyed. Just cut it at a 90 Degree angle and glue it in the corner. Don't worry if there is a small gap, we'll be sprinkling some snad here later to cover any of that and to add to the effect.
For taller buildings you can simulate more than one floor. Again this is 6-8mm so these floors must be giant but that's just 40K.
Some of the terrain I've made earlier, if you like you can mark out some windows and cut them with a knife before gluing the building together. The same can be done with large archways and the tall windows on the large Cathedral like structure. You can also add some internal walls to make the building look as if it was once subdivided, go nuts really, that's all part of the fun. Next up basing the buildings.Basic Tutorial
This bit of MDF cost me $12 for a 6 pack which is great value and comes in a 250mm Square. I picked up a giant sheet of thick card from the local newsagent for $2.50. This isn't foamcard or foamboard just thick cardboard.
The Basics and Tools. The most you will need for this project are a sharp knife, a pen, a ruler and some PVA glue.
I've marked this one for Flames of War Bases for another Project of mine but the idea is the same. Mark up some bases and get ready to cut them out.
Using multiple passes with not a lot of pressure to cut through the MDF. If you press to hard you risk breaking your knife and scuffing up your MDF with a ragged edge. It's not likely that you will get a perfect edge so I normally run either some sandpaper over the edge or put a slight bevel on the edge with the knife.
Repeat the same thing for the Cardboard. Once again multiple gentle passes will avoid any tearing, every so often break off the end of the knife to keep it sharp.
Never throw away the scraps, we'll use them later on to add some basing effects and broken floors.
