Muster the Rohirim, Another OTTer’s Heading Into Middle-Earth!

The largest part of this model was the wings, and that is exactly where I wanted to start. Fellbeasts are not exactly well kept creatures, their skin is worn down and weathered. When a wingspan of  a Fellbeast is spread, you can see the lighting from the other side peer through, ceating a lighter colour.

As I was painting on a black base – something which I rarely do. I wanted to water down the body and wing paint as much as possible to ensure I get the gradual effect I desire.

However gradual fades may look pretty, but they take time to build as layers have to be measured being a thin-almost-transparent paint.

I split my paint with 2 drops of  Vallejo Model Color Dark Grey 70994 with equal part water to thin out the paint.

One layer of this thin paint front and back, leaving space around the edge of the wing where the bones would be, allowed a subtle colour to come through.

I added two more coats to this mix, which created a marbley, almost uneven but solid colour to add further deapth to the first layer of the wings.

I am very aware that I look like I am hobbying into some form of taxidermy, but I swear – teeny tiny fell beast.

I wanted to use the same effect that I had on the wings to create a gradual tone on the underbelly too. Using a lighter grey with the same watered down technique. I began to layer after layer when drying. As each layer dried, the next layer would become smaller and place more focus on the centre.

I layed about five thin coats until I was happy with the effect until I continued down the bottom of the tail and neck.

Assembly was pretty straight forward. I kept close to the instructions and most of the parts slot right in. The head and tongue was pretty sturdy as they all clicked together. The legs and body formed very easily, however the Witch King didn’t seem too comfortable above his seat.

I mean, who would be right? I would genuinely pay money to watch The Witch King mount a Fellbeast. Does he use a step ladder?  Do his robes get in the way when clibling? Does the wind through the air atop of a Fellbeast pull his hood down?

Anywho, due to his lack of comfort, I decided to base spray both figues individually and glue once I have finished painting the two. Once they are both glued, I can then touch up the odd shadow here and there.

After scaring the bejeesus out of a passer-by family member as I was spray painting, as I was being described as “resurrecting a dead bat”, I left them to air out for about 60 minutes to give them a little peace and the paint to settle. Plus, I had something to eat – so waiting time wasn’t so bad.

Was genuinely chuffed with how the matt black base came out. I didn’t lose any texture, there was no alarming lines or marks from the filing, and what I was most concerned about – no detail was lost. Especially on the wings. I had plans for them!

My first impression when I opened the lid – that’s a lot of sprues. I tend to get put off by the assembly part of building, I have generally enjoyed pre-assembled miniatures from the likes of Steamforged, and was a little anxious with a few of the tiny pieces from a few Malifaux sets I had purchased in the past.

Middle-Earth is my comfort zone, therefore if I am going to know where anything goes on a character – chances are I am going to not have to rely on the instructions so much.

Instructions were pretty easy to follow in all fairness, it threw me off a little knowing that there were two builds for the head of the Fellbeast so for a while I was like “Why he got two heads?”, but I figured it out in the end!

After getting the Fellbeast and Witch King off the Sprue, I had found myself with A LOT OF PIECES. I messaged Gerry at this point asking if he was aware of the ridiculousness of a fellbeat’s anatomy.

However, I took time to compare them side by side with the assembly instructions to put them in some kind of order. Rather than a pile of plastic Fellbeast limbs.

Once I started to put them into piles, I gave them a little tidy up with a file to get all of the excess sprue off! Removing from the sprue is not my most favourite part of the process, so I do try as best as I can! I am certainly no master. I did also notice how many lines there were too on the larger pieces. So I also softend them a little so they didn’t show up after the base coat goes on.

After using a lot of glues, and getting used to each texture on different materials eg plastic, resin, metal etc. The best combo that works best for me and plastic is Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Didnt need to sit there awkwardly and hold it still for a long period of time, the longer I held, the more it bonded and was bonding on it’s own.