The Weekender XLBS: Hobby & A Reincarnation of Games Day?
July 27, 2014 by lloyd
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Happpppppyyyyyyy Suuuuunnnnnddddaayyyy!
Happy Sundayyyyyyyyyyy!
To strip down the paint from minis you can use oven cleaner. Scale modeler also use it to strip down chrome-plated plastic parts. Thats very effective. Just put the parts in for some minutes at the paint will disappear. You can also use brake fluid. But that stuff is more expensive and a little bit hazardous.
Lloyd’s creativity with terrain always blows me away. Another ingenius idea!
Great job guys. I’d be careful with detol on some plastics and resin, seen some pretty horrendous bendy minis after bad reactions with that stuff. Dropzone resin and X Wing minis have had some bad examples, could be the porous nature of the resin maybe.
Cheers for the pdf Lloyd, ingenious as ever.
Try Fairy Power spray, its fantastic stuff
I second this, just use it over night. Pour it into a container and leave the minis to soak. Wash off with a toothbrush and a bit of warm soapy water. I’ve used it to strip quite a lot of miniatures. Tends to break down superglue as well and sometimes JB quick weld.
A slightly safer way to unclog the revell glue applicator: hot wire cutter wire.
I used Denatured Ethanol (Called T-Röd in Swedish) to strip the paint from my Guard army and it worked very well. It takes a while but it wont hurt the plastic at all, let them sit in it for a day or two and then use a small brush to remove the paint. I actually forgot some miniatures in a bowl for a month and no harm done to them.
Fixing mini’s is easy, try pinning. Use the small jewellers drill bits and a pin vice for the fine work. Use the dremel for larger work. Notes of caution, careful using a dremel on small plastic and especially resin as the drill bit heats and can melt fine miniature parts, use the pin vice for these. Paperclips or fine wire (and broken Drill bits) are then used as pins into the parts and glued with superglue. It reduces the time needed to hold parts together as the pins increase the surface area on the bond. This is an especially useful… Read more »
All of this! There’s not many minis I don’t pin just as par for course. Brass rod works well for the pin itself.
To strip miniatures I use windex, which is a window cleaner containing ammonia-d, let the mini soak for 20-30 mins then use an old toothbrush to remove the paint. If there is a lot of layers or the paint is on very thick it might takes more than one attempt.
your the best thank you
for plastic and metal I use break fluid.
I know break fluid can melt plastic, but you would need to leave it in for about 4 days for it to start affecting the quality of the detail (tested on a genestealer)
dont know about resin though…
try using nail varnish remover on plastic mini’s, i use it alot, however i will say it will remove the glue as well, so the mini will fall apart, it wont remove most super glues, but the standard plastic glues will be removed, but ive found some times thats a good thing, especially when i have bought second hand mini’s that have been badly glued together, it takes about 30 mins to remove all the paint, using a old paint brush just to clean off the hard to reach areas, 1 word of warming though, dont leave the mini’s in… Read more »
Another great vid.
Have you changed the way it is streamed, as for the past three weeks the video will freeze, but the sound keeps going.
It only happens on XLBS.
i watch on my iPad
Hi @laager50, so you can watch the recent Hobby Lab videos with no disruption then?
Im having the same problem as @Laager50. XLBS freezes and has been doing so for a few weeks. Rest of the videos work without a hitch though.
Im on a macbook pro with the latest OS installed and updated. Im in Firefox
Nitromors Paint stripper. The key is in the words…. “paint stripper” gives you a pretty good idea what it does. For metal only mind you. Already got my warhammer fest tickets, cant be any worse than last years gamesday, i certainly wont be expecting any games this time.
I found when they changed to the ‘New Formula’ it didn’t work as well. Used to be a clear gel and then changed to green. The old formula I could actually see the paint melting off. It was brilliant.
I’ve got a few tins of the old stuff, I’ve found if you can be bothered to sieve the bits of paint out, its good for a couple of stripping’s. Only downsides (apart from using on metal only) if you don’t wash it thoroughly, it can affect any paint applied afterwards and if you don’t use in a well ventilated area, makes you as sick as a pig lol
Have got to say that I have really enjoyed the weekenders with Lloyd in the chair, they have been great fun watching with a constant grin on my face – well done 😀
Fairy power spray works, but the whole point of using household products is to save money, and fairy power spray isnt cheap.
You can get a big tub of proper plastic model stripper that will last a long time that doesnt smell so much and works very well.
Can’t remember where I got mine from, a tamiya model kit stockist I think, but this at ebay is a similar product. Yes, it costs more than a power spray bottle but it will do 5 times as many models.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251584279808?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
Castrol Super Clean. Comes in a purple container (in the States) and is a purple liquid. I have left minis in it for weeks. Works great on plastic and metal. I have never used it on resin though. I usually use a toothbrush to scrub it off after soaking.
I use nail polish remover for metal minis, leave them to soak then use an old toothbrush. Plastics I don’t bother. I have heard of simply green as mention but never tried it. As for models that break – Dark Eldar minis. I love the army they look awesome but man they are a pain the A** to transport. and they are plastic.
I love the Smog minis, I wish they’d do a better game for them. I’ve used Gorilla Glue quite a lot and never had an issue with it. It is possible for a company to do a multi-day event and fill it with loads of stuff to do. Privateer Press run their in-house event over three days, but they fill it with lots of gaming as well seminars and whatnot.
Acetone works well on metal minis but will melt plastic into sludge.
So you’re saying use it on your Centurions to make them look better?
BOOM!
ZING!
Gamesday was broke and needed fixing.
@8:30 missed beep?
Cosplay Bloodball?
Fixing metal models joints? For big models with heavy arms/wings etc. try something called Sugru (was a KS a couple of years ago). It’s a bit like a pre-mix greenstuff, except this cures into a more ‘rubbery’ material and can act as an adhesive. The rubber property actually gives the joints a bit of dampening/give and heavy arms/wings tend not to ‘snap’ off quite as much.
If the joint does break then you can use the previous sugru as a gasket and glue it back on.
I’ve used DOT-4 brake fluid to strip paint from plastic and metal miniatures. It works well and at least the brands I’ve used do not melt plastic, even if I’ve left (forgotten) the models in for weeks or months. The brake fluid softens the paint in about 24h after which you can use an old toothbrush to clean the minies.
Dot 3 – Break Fluid for stripping models. 3 Days soak. Resin, Plastic and Metal.
Even works for Fine-Cast
Sam and Lloyd are hilarious, love those guys.
Think Justin should have just said they were not painted to his liking….not cool to publicly announce that some is crap at this or that.
Other than that great XLBS.
Maybe when Warren returns, Justin can be publicly flogged….
Hi @wendern, glad you liked the show, but to be fare it was more me putting Justin in that position on the show for some banter.
And what is wrong with a public flogging? Maybe you could get Warren to do it in his Man-kini while the weather is good…… 🙂
LOL to late it’s back to being Ireland again here!