Hobby Lab: Creating City Roads & Blocks Part 2
June 6, 2014 by warzan
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Another option for those not wanting to mess about, is http://bressau-creativ.de/product_info.php?info=p800_acrylmalerei-rico–design-artist-gel-black-magic-250ml.html&XTCsid=bd5d4a4e09c439c19b952c23122742c1
The normal white molding gel I use on the main body of my tower. And it may be easier to use. http://www.beastsofwar.com/groups/terrain/forum/topic/why-you-dont-need-to-use-gw-textured-paint/
@doctorether What colour is it when it’s applied?
I guess based on the name it must be black.
The normal stuff ice essentially skull white. The black stuff I have yet to try out, but I imagine is pure black. They also do a heavier grade “structure” paste. Which is akin to pva and sand, yes easier to apply.
It’s a great product 🙂
I’m not sure the end texture is the same though
Depends. The molding paste is creamier, and dry brushes to give a concrete look, while the heavier grade is more like sand. Mixing both together…. no idea!
With regard to your polyfilla colour changes, I just checked the chemistry (PhD in chemistry here). So the polyfilla is gypsum, and so the water is allowing the powered gypsum to dissolve, and re crystallize as large particles. So this is what is pulling the moisture out of the liquid medium (the glue) and causing the change in colour and texture.
Compare that to the stuff I linked, which is not gypsum but a silica granular. And so the drying process doesn’t involve any form of chemistry going on other that the acrylic drying out.
I believe its the gypsum that is giving us the ‘concrete texture’ right out of the box though. No painting or dry brushing required.
I will state that I am not a fan of dry brushing large areas, as it’s way to easy to get brush strokes. 🙂
Perhaps more useful, with out the paint on it is my tower post structure paste.
You get a feel for the upper boy with the lighter molding paste, and the base being doen with the structure paste. Both certainly have texture straight out of the tub.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/yourphotos?pid=6020469452795369202&oid=103637968787207095295
I need to spell check my posts more….. long day.
Oh yeah, larger areas and dry brushing is a nightmare. Another note, I would say for a given area and thickness, the polyfilla will be heavier, simply because comparatively the granules are denser, in fact more so because of the chemistry (gypsum contains heavier molecular subunits and does not form the nice expanded molecular frameworks that silica grains give). This is perhaps a moot point for gaming boards, but for texturing buildings and smaller scenery pieces, the difference could be important. The one thing your mix of course does get around, by using the glue in the mix, is the… Read more »
Good vid guys 😀
What kind of product is pollyfiller for non english speaking countries. I can’t find it on sites of DYI stores. I’m sure they have it, just a different name. What’s it normally used for?
Normally used for patching cracks and holes in walls mate 🙂
Right, then I had the right product in mind, thanks.
How well does the dice roll on the finished product?
In the US pollyfilla is referred to as spackle. There are several different versions. Model railroad suppliers or local hobby stores usually have a product called hydrocal, which is a gypsum powder essentially. However, most DIY stores have several products that are similar in the drywall sections used for plaster wall repair.
Thanks dt. I’ve seen the hydrocal before and it helps knowing that’s essentially the same thing. It’d be a nice idea to create a small amazon (or similar) list for both those on our side of the pond and the BoW side to go along with the vid just to assist in making sure everyone gets the right stuff.
Great video guys. This is EXACTLY the kind of info that makes making some of the bigger tables a whole lot less daunting for me, since I’ve never really done much of this before.
Oops. I see other folks are putting links in to a product at HomeDepot below. =)
really been looking forward to this 2nd installment. Have plans for doing s similar project using 4No. 4’x2′ boards that can be swapped around for different layouts. Me and some old friends are getting back into 40k after more than a decade away, mainly a nostalgia trip and more than likely deadzone, mercs & infinity will be making an appearance sooner rather than later (hence wishing to keep whatever we do versatile). As we are coming at this from scratch we are also looking at terrain. I’d really like to see how a variety of existing terrain options look on… Read more »
Just a note here guys for the future.. I’m new (trial got me in) and lhave been diggin’ the videos so far. So I don’t mean to be nitpicky, but let me clarify something:
In the States it’s called “spackle.” No “r.” Sprackle is a reference to crystal meth – ala Breaking Bad. 😀 Keep up the good stuff. 😀
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Sandpaper-Patching-Repairs-Patching-Repair/Spackling-Paste/N-5yc1vZc5d1Z1z0szqu?cm_sp=PLP-_-bnr-_-d24-_-sandpaper-_-Spackling_Paste
vs.
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Sandpaper-Patching-Repairs-Patching-Repair/Spackling-Paste/N-5yc1vZc5d1Z1z0szqu?cm_sp=PLP-_-bnr-_-d24-_-sandpaper-_-Spackling_Paste
Well I went and messed it up. Is there an edit comment function?
In any case, one of those links needs to be this one:
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=sprackle
Great stuff, it looked nice from a distance, but those close up shots really showed the impressive results of this technique.
Also, more fart noises please!
I’m going to use this to build my own city table this summer. but as I also play dust tactics, any tips to put a roster on the table without making it to apparent? I was thinking of putting little dots for the corners, not if this would work as I also want to use it for battlefield.
2 Options:
1: Play Dust Battlefield (you already know most of the rules)
2: Dont build the table at an angle and cut the tiles in squares to give you a natural looking grid (not my cup of tea, but I have been discussing it with @lloyd and he’s a fan of that approach)
Hey Warren, slightly off topic, but is Dust Battlefield replacing Warfare? Everything seems to be shifting that direction.
That’s a great looking concrete texture, even before weathering. Excellent results from (what seems like) relatively low effort. Bravo! 🙂
I’ve come to watch this, but with my Video set to HTML5 I get an error – “No Video supported format and MIME type found.”
I switched to HTML5 as I like to watch in full screen and the other format stretches the video vertically to fill my non-widescreen monitor (so stone age I know!).
What device are you having these issues on?
My desktop computer running Win 8.1 Pro (32-bit) update 1 with the Firefox 29.0.1 browser. When I go and use IE I’m not even getting a video window showing.
Technique Toolbox works fine, Weekender XLBS, Hobby Lab and For the love of VLOG are all currently throwing up the same error.
Can you try it in Google Chrome for me please @jodain?
Chrome works fine @warzan.
Nice video guys, I’m thinking about trying my hand at tables sometime this year.
More cool tips, I love it! 🙂
Hmm when I make some more asteroids I think I’ll try adding the paint to the texture mix rather than spraying it on afterwards. Looks like I’m going to need a lot of black paint to counteract the white of the polyfilla if I want a nice dark base coat..
..but that will still work out cheaper than a can of Army Painter black, I’m sure 😀
Ha! I’ve been doing this for years for my bases… also used it to make rocky tiles for a theatre show. Never gave it a name though
Nice video. Personally I think Hobby Lab is the best part of BoW.
I use a similar mix, but instead of spackle I use tiling grout.
a) it’s available in multiple colors
b) the end result is harder and less prone to chipping
@BoW Warren
I am in the middle of making a desert city boards at 20mm scale, very similar to Iraq in the movie Green Zone. Would you use magi mix to make the plater esq effects on the buildings or do you suggest something else?
This formula will not really give that ‘rough plaster’ effect. UNLESS you try leaving it overnight (Sealed in a container) and use it the next day after adding just a little water.
But applying it straight after mixing it will make the end result look more concrete than plaster.
(I would maybe just buy some ready mixed filler and add some PVA to the mix and try applying that)
As always … try it out on a test piece!
Cheers Warren. Great help as always. Any tips on sand effects for the ground?
Revisiting this after watching them both initially, have my own board 6×4 in the works (finally).
Plan is for a 6×4 board that can double as a 4x 4 for smaller games. So keeping square-ish. The two outer boards are city with a ruined parkland in the centre that can be removed easilly