Warmaster Revolution (10mm Fantasy) – Ogres & Lizardmen

In this post, I’ll share how I painted the details on the savage kin and yetis.  On the savage kin, I painted the pus bubbles and added a bit of gore.

The yetis were used as test models for leather, wood, and bone.  Now that I’m happy with how they came out, I’m in the process of painting these details on the remaining units.  It’s incredibly time consuming, so it’ll be a bit until the next update.  The army is now starting to come together, so the motivation to get to basing remains strong.

Details in the captions.

Due to the large amount of brushwork still to be done and my hectic end-of-year work schedule, progress has been slow but steady.

For clothing on the ogres and savage kin, I used the same method as with the goblins – starting with a very dark grey and working my way up.  Because these models are a little larger, I was able to do some traditional layering in addition to the overbrushing.

As always, details in the captions.

Next up, finishing off the Savage Kin and Yetis.

In this post I detail how I did the brushwork for the goblins’ clothing and also the final skin highlights.  For the cloth, the highlights were overbrushed (wet drybrush) with an old, rough, brush followed by a ghost tint with a soft detail brush.  The skin highlights were applied the usual way with detail brush.  This method gave the best balance between quality results and a reasonable amount of speed.  Even with this in mind, the progress below still took two long painting sessions to complete.

It’ll be a couple weeks until I post any additional progress.  I’m picking up some overtime at work and the pace of brushwork is relatively slow.

As always, details are in the captions.

More to come when I have time to paint again.  C&C always welcome.

Future purchases aside, the Savage Kin are the last addition to the army.  Future updates will cover the considerable amount of brush work and basing that are still to be done.

While the paints were airbrushed, the ghost tints were brushed on for a patchier look.

That covers the basic look of the army.  There’s still lots brushwork to do, not to mention basing.

C&C welcome!

While the purpose of the airbrush work here is to apply a brown basecoat, I also wanted to map out the location of future highlights.  I’ll paint individual wood planks with a brush later, so there’s no need for tinting & washing.

This is a very short update.  Details in the captions.

Next up, Savage Kin.

In this post I cover basecoating the giants.  I decided to go with a black skin tone and will add contrast by painting the beards orange/yellow to go with the lava theme.  Also in this post are two modified elves from Eureka Miniatures.  They sent me these by mistake and let me keep them when the correct item was shipped.  Since I don’t plan on making an elf army, I’ve been looking for excuses to use them elsewhere.  They’ll be added to the giants’ bases as a nod to the old Warhammer giants.

Details in the captions.  At this stage, all colors are zenithally airbrushed.

Vallejo Game Inks Blue and Black mixed with water and flo aid. Applied with a soft brush in two thin coats.

The yetis fur is done.  I did them the same way as the mammoths but with different colors of course.  This post explains how the yeti fur was painted. Details in the captions.

Next up, Giants!

In this post I detail how the ogres were painted.  Details in the captions.

Basecoated Ogres:

Next up, Yetis!

This post details how I painted the mammoth fur.  Details are in the captions.

Up next, Ogres!

Paint and ghost tints were applied with an airbrush.  Ink washes were applied with a soft brush in two coats.  Additional details can be found in the captions.

Next Up, Mammoths!

I’ve had more free time than usual the last week and I’ve put it to good use.  Basecoating is done for the entire army, meaning the majority of the airbrush work is complete.  I’ll be posting up a few updates as I sort though the photos.

The same basic formula was followed, with some variation, for the entire army:  basecoat, highlight, ghost tint, wash, highlight, varnish, done.  It made for a good balance between achieving good results while still being easily repeatable on lots of tiny minis.  The highlights were applied zenithally with an airbrush to maximize contrast (painting 10mm is all about contrast).  Later brushwork will be used to reduce the airbrush look a bit.

Before the models could be painted, they had to be primed.  I airbrushed a basecoat of Vallejo Black Surface Primer followed by a zenithal highlight of Vallejo Grey Surface Primer.  I didn’t go all the way to white because the army will have an overall darker look.

Next up, painting greenlings.

I’ve always wanted to play massed battle fantasy, but I think that 28mm is just too big for a 4′ x 6′ table.   In my opinion, this genre is best done in 10mm to really capture the epic sense of scale.  Since there are no local Warmaster Revolution players, I’ll be making two armies of over 2,000 points each.

Since Warmaster models are no longer available from GW, I’ll be using third-party models.  The Ogres are from Black Gate Miniatures.  The Lizardmen are from Eureka Miniatures, USA.  I’ll note any exceptions in the individual post.

Ogres will be painted first, and the prep work (sanding, removing mold lines, pinning & filling joins, mounting for painting, etc.) is already done. I’ve also completed all of the sanding & mold line removal on a very large Lizardmen army.  Now that the majority of the prep work is out of the way, the fun part can begin.

Assuming it funds (which looks likely), I will also have a couple of units of Bull Ogres / Ironguts coming in from Andy Taylor’s Old School Styled Ogres Kickstarter.  I think they’ll bring a bit of variety to the troop units and give me some flexibility for larger games.

I already have a lava table (and lots more terrain pieces than are pictured below) so the ogres will have a fire theme.  The lizardmen will probably get the classic exotic bird look just to keep things interesting. I did make up a project log detailing how to build & paint the table and terrain on the old BoW forums, but it got lost when they moved over to the new format. I still have the photos and could probably redo it as a project if anyone is interested. The table is magnetic to maximize both stability and flexibility.

Up Next – Painting begins!