Idoneth Deepkin Slow Build

The Advil wasn’t cutting it from the pain from my Wisdom Teeth extraction so I had to switch to the hard stuff and was out of it for several days. Downside, it looks like the nerve was bruised due to proximity to the extracted tooth. But head mostly cleared up I pushed on.

I decided put my chest on a piece of cork to make it stand out from the sandy paste and water. I mocked up a piece with some aquarium plants I also plan to add.

I shaped off several pieces of cork and used a chest to make sure it fit on it. I find that using a set of needle nose pliers give a good random breakage pattern, better than doing it by hand.

I wanted some texture on the cork but not anything as coarse as the sandy paste will be so I used some Vallejo Brown Earth. It has a much finer grit to it. I used it just on the top of the cork after gluing them down to the bases.

I decided on using 50mm bases. 50mm are the size of objective in Warmachine and since AoS just measure from the center of the objective it wouldn’t matter much either. Making it 50mm though does break it down to easier math for AoS since it’s 1″ from the center to the edge of the base so you’d need to be within 2″ of the edge to claim it.

Proxie Models makes some nice flat bases. I ordered a bunch of them from Amazon a while back.

I was going to start quick painting the treasure chests when I ran into my second, and bigger setback. Once again, my airbrush compressor died. That’s two within as many months.

The first one was years old and I understand it giving up but this new one was literally just 1 day over a month old. After 10 minutes of base coating the chests it turned off and refused to turn back on. I called the company I bought it from and they’re sending me a new one but that’s still about a week before it arrives.

So this also forced me to figure out priming as I’ve been using an airbrush to prime for years now.

I found a rattle can of Army Painter’s Wold Grey and used that on the objective bases. (I also took a moment and hand primed the Tidecaller figure using Army Painter Brush-on Primer.)

Next step is some washes and drybrushing on the objective before adding the sandy paste and trying the different water experiments.