Andy and Mike take a look at the Ariadna Starter Set
March 21, 2011 by dignity
As part of Infinity Week, Andy and Mike take a look at the Ariadna Starter Set.
Bow Justin
March 21, 2011 by dignity
As part of Infinity Week, Andy and Mike take a look at the Ariadna Starter Set.
Bow Justin
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gotta’ love that camoflayge
Les figurines sont magnifiques… Comme toujours pour Infinity !
Personnellement, j’aime bien les armées perfectionnées, propres, nettes et élitistes… J’attends donc avec une impatience non dissimulée la présentation vidéo de Pan-Océania, de Yu-Jing et d’Aleph !
L’accent de Mike ? Eh bien, pour tout dire, il n’est pas si mauvais par rapport à ce que j’ai déjà entendu en France…
Sorry guys for the camoflayge but french accent works pretty well with girls, you should try 😉
You shall see elromanozo, you can play an elitiste army with all factions!!!!!
Hope you are enjoying videos guys!!!
Anyway everybody will love this awesome game because…….it is awesome!
Mike the frenchy
Frenchie power !
Vive la différence Mikey-boy!
You’ll be seeing more of Mike soon when we do some tips videos… just another expert recruited by BoW to beat me on camera! 😀
BoW Andy
Actually most models are amazingly easy to put together, they have special either special precut gaps or ball joints to make assembly easy, there are a few difficult models to put together, but not in the Ariadna starter.
A think to look for thought are some hidden gems in the line, because of the way CB sculpts their models a few within the line can have arm swaps producing more models without needing new sculpts.
Actually I’ll have to disagree, with you @psychoticstorm, there are a good few Infinity miniatures that require a modicum of modelling know-how to assemble. I’ve built all the sets for the unboxings, plus more than a few Japanese sectorial troops. The Infinity miniatures use a tin alloy that is softer than pure tin, so that it flows more easily in the molds and can create much finer parts and detail (there’s a reason why the GW minis are so chunky and cartoon-like and it’s not just an artistic reason) However, this finer alloy also makes the parts a bit more… Read more »
I sort of agree there. The models are designed to go together well, but some of the joints and parts are small, so a good glue and small tweezers are good idea. On the other hand, apart from a few really irritating parts ,I didn’t have to pin anything at all, even the larger models.
small parts the issue for me… I cheated and left a few bits off….model still looks great.
Never thought about that part of GW models been chunky, learn something every day I guess.
You might be right, I am a metal miniatures die hard with 28 years under my belt working with them and converting them, some things that may look like a mountain to a novice are routine for me, that may cloud mu judgement.
but as you said Infinity range has something for everyone from easy one piece models to easy multipart, to medium and to difficult models.
Come now… If you wash your minis then use a proper glue, there’s no problem putting any of the Infinity minis together, even with some of the drones’ very small parts. Maybe you just had an old kit, or maybe you just have big fingers !
I have fat fingers
I’ve only one thing to say… PanOceana and Yu Jing aerials… they should be outlawed! 😀
Dang…+1 for me on that @beergore
I seem to have accidently -1 thumbed you
Aw come on, its not that bad, hold the miniature from the base or the main body if possible, put glue in the helmet “socket” and hold aerial from the top applying pressure to the base of the areal, with your fingernail…..
ok, ok, I get your point 🙂
Actually, if you look at the newer models, they do away with those really tiny antennas where they can. The Crocman hacker doesn’t have it where the other crocs do, the new magister missile launcher doesn’t have one where the swiss one had that irritating tiny antenna just where it could snap off the most…I can’t say I’m unhappy about that either.
That is true and the new Yu Jing aerials/ heat exhaust rods are one piece that slots easily in place.
While I love the Infinity range of mini’s I do have to agree with the BoW guys on the fact that they aren’t the easiest models around to fit together. However as a positive because some of the fiddly parts are so light and by virtue the contact area to overall volume so large you actually require hardly any pinning on any model, unlike some chunkier ranges out there like GW’s or PP’s stuff. They’re not hard and certainly shouldn’t put people off of buying them, its just you have to take your time and be careful when putting them… Read more »
So as your modles die do you lose there order token?
Basically yes….you get 1 oder token for the leader and 1 per figure deployed on the table
Yes, but order pool is calculated at the start of the turn, so the loss is felt at the start of your next turn.
For FREEDOM!!!!…. sorry the scottish gray warrior just reached out to me. It must be my background that got me to roar that. BTW Andy you better have a kilt on when you play the Scot’s 😛
Ariadna models are not the worst one, people will understand when they will open the Aleph Starter pack 😉
But I am agree with Andrew young wargamer need someone for help.
BoW Mike
the aerials are easy to overcome just drill a small hole where the aerial needs to go then cut the aerial below the cut mark on the sprue and file to fit. As for the ones on the sides of their helmets “AAAAAHHHHHHH”
Hi guys, new here due to the Infinity week. I highly recommend pinning if you can. These figs are so detailed and great I think they deserve a bit more work put into them. It’s not like you have 100 figs to put together for an army. Take the time to love them 😉 This is also a great vid BTW. I think Mike did a great job for a first time on camera and english not being his first language. Ariadna is a fun army that may have low tech but almost the whole group and be camo and… Read more »
I agree, you’ll be seeing more of Mike when we start doing some tips videos.
BoW Andy
Another Idea for aerials is to cut off at the base and again drill it out then place a “strand” from a floor broom (plastic) as these are a good thickness but not too thick. This not only gives a good replacement that is also realistic with flexibility. As for helmet aerials I’m not sure how that would work.