Master Class: Painting the D&D Eye Tyrant Part 1
September 9, 2013 by elromanozo
Video Sponsors: Mercs - Warmachine
Romain has taken out another of the fantastic D&D collectors series minis for a painting tutorial, and will be showing off another round of his wet painting techniques.
For more info. on the D&D Collector's Series form Gale Force Nine visit: www.gf9-dnd.com
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another great wet blending tutorial. i found citadel paints ok recently i have been letting them down with lamian medium from citadel that works better with citadel paints than valejjo flow aid i find not sure why.
Thanks !
I don’t know why either. I assume the formulas are getting more and more brand-specific, and that GW, as per usual, wants very specific products that are less miscible with other brands and more specific to the GW painting style. They sure are implementing sculpts that are made for the “eavy metal” style already.
No backstage needed for this tutorial? Let’s hope this will continue -)
The contributions from backstage are what enables us to do tutorials like the above, so if you like them, it would be great if you considerd contributing 🙂
Generally, the lovely big full ones are meant to be on display for all to see, but you get to experience the tips (and so much more) in the back area…
Sorry, couldn’t resist. 🙂
that and it would be totally remiss of us not to let @elromanozo ‘s one eyed monster out of the back area … 😉
Sure. Right after the purple worm, here’s the big balled red guy with the eye…
Hi Romain. I purchased the Purple Worm and some War Paint after watching that tutorial. Can you give a rough idea about what the open working time for the paint is when using this wet on wet technique? Thanks.
Good for you ! You’ve got plenty of time as long as you don’t leave it alone. If you keep painting it, it lasts longer (obviously). Depending on your dilution, it lasts… oh, about an hour, tops. But you will never need that long a time. Even if you’re extra-slow, use medium if you need to (I didn’t). You may have to pour more paint on your palette as you go (as I did), but don’t worry about time : at least just do the whole basecoat in one sitting, you’ll be all right. You’ll see, it’s very quick anyway.… Read more »
Awesome Tutorial as alaways Romain, looking forward to the other parts. Some quick questions, if you don’t mind: 1-What’s the brush you use to paint the eye? It seems like a small flat brush… 2 – I have recently noticed that some friends of mine have a thing for the “ivory” colour (they use it in extreme highlights wheter its white, bone or some other colours, as well as mixing it to achieve lighter versions of the base colour). In this tutorial you also use it instead of just white, (in this case to blend the creature’s eye) What’s with… Read more »
Thanks for the compliments ! 1) It was indeed a small flat brush. Specifically a Royal and Langnickel filbert brush, about the equivalent of a number 4 flat brush or filbert brush in other brands. 2) Sadly, I may be credited for this “bad” habit, if they’re fans of my tutorials… That or a certain line of historical figure painters magazine, and some Internet articles for the aficionado. I often use Ivory for reasons explained below. However, I try never to systematically use a certain paint for all highlights or all shadows on every miniature. Still, some tones come back… Read more »
Thanks for the reply Romain!
When I mentioned the Ivory thing, i didn’t mean it as a “bad thing”: i’m actually starting to enjoy the colour very much. It was only to understand the rational behind it being awesome 🙂
As for your coulour theory series I’ve watched it quite some times and actually return to it from time to time 🙂
Regarding the brush question, I find it quite interesting that you use brushes other than the usual standard miniature brushes or the classic W&N series 7. You seem to use standard artist brushes, or am I completly wrong on this ?
Cheers
I always tell you (pretty much) what brush I use… Prince August (french miniature brand), Raphael (the very very best) and Isabey are my favorites. W&N series 7 are too expensive for what they are, IMHO, but it’s all a matter of taste and availability. The W&N series 7 is indeed an “artist’s brush”, and you should always endeavor to use proper brushes, at any rate. I’ve done an article about brushes that’s still on BoW somewhere… There are great brushes out there, even the synthetic nylon/taklon ones, and very affordable… Comparatively, the brushes from many specialized brands, such as… Read more »
Agreed 100%
The Citadel brushes have been a disapointment and I’ve stopped using them altogether. I have come to use the Valejo ones and find them excelent in the money/value ratio.
Oh yes, those aren’t bad at all, if you can get them.
Hey Romain, if you’d be so kind as to give me a little bit of advise. Been a gamer for a long time but have only recently been trying to really improve my painting skills. 1 – When it comes to shades and highlights, I do a pretty good job with the former but often struggle with the latter. Usually if I attempt to blend shadows I either make them too stark or too subtle. I can’t seem to achieve that nice “sweet spot” where they give the model depth without looking out of place. As a result I’ve been… Read more »
Hi ! 🙂 1) If you want to go for my usual technique of washes and glazes (which is by no means the only one to achieve blending), it seems to me that, from what you tell me, you need to dilute your paint more (or control the dilution better). Put less paint on your brush, perhaps. Only by seeing some of your work would I be able to advise you properly on this one… The gist of the technique is getting only a little dilute paint on your brush, and paint a “veil” of pigment over the surface you… Read more »
Wow…that was a little longer than expected. Not that I’m complaining. 🙂 Given the price and how hard it is to get here in the US I’ll probably stay away from Foundry for the time being. I’ll stick to my Vallejo, Warpaints, and P3. I would give you pictures, except my only camera is on my phone and I don’t think it could properly show you how the minis look. I’m thinking maybe I’m just too obsessed with getting an opaque basecoat before I start blending. Generally my first basecoat still shows the primer but is enough to have color… Read more »
Vallejo, Warpaints and P3 are what I use… Can’t be faulted for that ! 🙂 I think that, if it helps, don’t consider the basecoat as a basecoat. Consider it simply teh first of a series of washes and glazes… As for dilution, you should feel like it’s watercolour, not oil or gouache. I don’t know if you get my meaning… Patchiness is usually about paint drying in places where you don’t want it to dry (with higher pigment concentration). The solution is… cheating. Paint surfaces one at a time, always end your brush strokes in a crease (so the… Read more »