3 Colours Up Review – Formula P3 Paints
September 21, 2011 by elromanozo
Made by Privateer Press, it was advertised almost as sycophantically as the usual latest release from Games Workshop... While they're not exactly the second coming, they are a great range indeed!
For beginners, they have clearly labeled tones designed for the basecoating and highlighting of their faction colors... Other than that, they only have one range with one consistency, plus inks. If you need washes, you can make your own with glaze medium or water... The paint takes to it very well.
I really like that range, because they have the finest, densest pigments I've seen in paint so far. It's akin to the Vallejo Air range, but it's a LOT thicker, which allows for excellent coverage for basecoats (even with reds and yellows!) and colors that are still quite vivid when diluted.
I don't know how they do it, but I have yet to see a P3 paint separate... Whether inside the pot or outside of it, the pigments don't pool and the thinner doesn't surface uninvited ! Their tones are bright, even over a black undercoat, even dilute... More vivid than most ranges.
That said, this thicker consistency can put some painters off, especially those who are used to a more liquid paint... Painters who were there before the advent of the now widespread use of pre-mixed washes will, however, take to P3 like a duck to water.
As for variety, they're not an especially wide range, but they do have all of the "usual" sci-fi/fantasy tones, as well as many colors specific to the Iron kingdoms, such as Trollblood Skin and Blighted Gold, and many very interesting nuances.
These are excellent choices and variations especially made for the fans of the Privateer Press games, a nice change from the usual palette, introducing to Fantasy painters colors you had to find by trial and error in other, wider ranges...
It's also a shame this great paint comes in such pots. It looks like the old Coat d'Arms paint pots... The ones used by a certain other paint manufacturer years ago.
They open and close easily enough, but it's quite impractical to put paint to palette... You'd be tempted to paint from the pot, as it seems the lid was made for it... We all do it from time to time... But you shouldn't, of course, because that would ruin your brush!
Finally, I can but deplore the fact that, while some miniature stores stock the P3 paints, a lot of stores (especially in Europe) do not... And when they do, they only carry paint sets, and the trouble with paint sets is that you always get some colors you don't want. Distribution is still a weak link in the P3 selling machine...
I have recently discovered Formula P3, and I'm an enthusiastic convert... Sure, you can find every one of those tones in one range or another (as is the case with most brands), but they won't have that special P3 smoothness!
IMPORTANT UPDATE : Users have reported that the P3 gold paints separates a lot, and that the metallics have thicker pigments than the rest of the range. While the flow of the metallic paints I've tried is adequate, and the pigments are as fine as any other range (except those designed specifically for airbrushing) generally, some amount of clogging and granulosity has been found, mainly in golds...
In fact, Privateer Press has recalled all pots of Molten Bronze and Rhulic Gold to redo the formula because of a flaw in the process : these pots tended to clog and be granulous, indeed, sometimes drying inside the pot. hence the problems experienced, presumably. The problem has been corrected, and the next pots of these tones to be sold will, in all probability, be just as perfectly flow-y as the other metallic colors in the range !
However, just in case, let the buyer beware... Check the gold pots in the store before buying.
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a good review however many of my p3 paints certainly separate in the pot nothing compared to Vallejo but heartfire and menoth white as well as one of their greys I have had issues with
Nice review, I really have to try them out some time, even if I’m now accustomed to dropper bottles.
Little bit off topic question: What is the difference (in composition and appliance) between inks and washes?
I have the new GW washes and some rather old ones. The old ones have lots more pigments and are somehow more oily. Were those inks? I water them down and use them just like the new washes…
This has always confused me, because I thought washes and inks are the same, just a different name for the same product.
There’s a difference in texture and glossiness. As far as I understand it (and I’m no chemist), a wash is usually a paint that has been thinned down with some medium (or water, for that matter). This makes it more transparent and prone to go in the recesses of your miniature. Even though the GW washes appear sometimes a little thick and have a satin finish, they’re not as glossy as inks and the thickness is more due to the medium used than the pigments themselves… They designed it to be easier to apply, presumably. Ink is actually different, denser… Read more »
Thanks a lot for your explanation!
Now that I think about it, were those old GW washes not called inks? On the pot they are called wash, but somehow I think I called them inks back then.
And from your description they seem to fit the term ink. So maybe I already own inks and didn’t know. 😀
I wouldn’t know about your particular pots… I know that sometimes, the distinction between wash and ink is difficult to make, depending on the pigments and processes used by each brand.
Ultimately, it’s just a question of terminology… An ink, by any other name, would tint as well. Experiment, and see if this pot fits you !
BoW Romain
http://zombiesrcoolpainting.wordpress.com/2011/07/
here is a link to some pics (hope the link worked) with some paint separation as you can see their is blue floating on top of the white and their is a liquid separating from the pigment sorry many of the pics are super blurry but hopefully you get the idea
don’t get me wrong I love the p3 paints and use them heaps just the “no separation” marketing annoys me because that is not the case
I get your point, and… Yes, I was wrong in saying these paints don’t separate. However, I think you’ll find they separate in a different way : They actually use liquid dye instead of solid pigments. That way, not only does the paint separates less than others, but when it does it keeps a good texture and doesn’t get granulous or difficult to mix again. Furthermore, when well mixed or shaken, it STAYS homogenous for a long while, as opposed to other brands. I find this invaluable, as many paints tend to separate on the palette after hours of painting,… Read more »
Most of the line will not separate like many other lines do but some are really bad for seperation. I will never use Formula P3’s metalic paints after seeing first hand the gold pots from one supplier I know. For some reason all of them where rock hard as if the lid was left open but they where all sealed. Besides the gold he said he likes the range and has never had problems but every time he orders the gold it seems to go bad. So he worned me to avoid the gold only. I personaly have some of… Read more »
Really ? I haven’t had any issues with the gold… The paint was separated within the pot, but a good shake remedied to the problem.
Then again, I’ve only tried Blighted Gold, not Rhulic Gold.
Still, it’s worth mentioning if some pots have a problem, as all pots from the same lot will probably tend to have the same…
This just goes to show, the reviewer is highly dependent on the quality of the particular pots he gets for his review !
Hopefully, these are very localized problems, as I’ve heard nothing but good from people using this range, present company excepted…
BoW Romain
forgot to mention earlier but I have found the pigment in the metallic colours to be quite large and when drybrushed it gives an odd flaky look this may have just been me but I have heard a large amount of people conplaining about the p3 golds
I’ve updated the article…
Apparently, it’s just as I said : A defective batch !
BoW Romain
I’ll ask my supplier if after that batch if he ever came across that issue again. He gave me one to try and it was HARD with a clear liquid around it. I really hope this was only a bad batch or they taken steps to remedy this if its an on going issue.
Just read your new post. That’s great to know they fixed this before it became a bigger issue than it needs to be. Thats what a good company does, it takes feedback and then action.
Just out of curiosity, one complaint that Romain makes about several of these paint companies is that they don’t come in dropper bottles. I agree that this is the best delivery method. I was reading this comment yet again when I thought “why don’t you just decant them?” I’m sure it’s not going to be impossible to get hold of empty dropper bottles with a decent seal. A quick Google turned up loads of options.
Nice paint in a decent container. Problem solved!
That’s what many people do for their mixes… Most people don’t mind the standard pots though, and it’s only an annoyance when the paint tends to dry in the pot and around the rim.
Some painters actually prefer the regular pots, so they’re able to use the back of a brush to stir the paint inside… Just like with old Humbrol pots.
But masochism has its limits…
I’ll be looking into dropper bottles, see if they’re cheap enough…
BoW Romain
A very quick search found some for 31p, and you can presumably do better in quantity and with a bit of looking. My only concern would be with their being sufficiently airtight. However, many are sold as medical tools, so you’d expect a certain sort of standard. And you could always ask.
sure you can transfer the paint to droppers for pretty cheep but is it worth the time and effort when reaper and Vallejo are their ?
in the end the time and hassle is an issue and also you are wasting quite a bit of paint.
I have tried it and it was sooo irritating and fiddly that it just wasn’t practical
A good review as always Romain! Just about everything you write in the review confirms what I’ve read from other people commenting on the P3 range. A question on the consistency though: Just how thick is the paint? Is it say comparable to foundation paints or is it something else entirely?
It’s slightly thicker than the Vallejo paints… They’re the thickness of the old Rackham paints, from what I remember.
It’s about the same flow as the Foundation paints, but different texture… I don’t know how to explain it. Different pigment type I guess… It has the same coverage.
BoW Romain
Love these reviews.
I do like the P3 range of paints, and am slowly replacing my old Citadel/GW paints with a mix of P3 and Vallejo. I figure it’ll be about two more years before I finally run out of GW paints.
Thanks for the review and useful to know, shame you don’t have a paints section with more brands and reviews on there. from P3 to Gw, to Mig rust powder to Wargames Foundries range.
That way you can get a colour comparision, and customer comments review.