How To Paint A Deadzone Plague Commander Part 1!
October 2, 2014 by elromanozo
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Thank you for the kind words about this mini. Cheers
No, thank you ! It is a great piece, even though the inside of the arms had to be resculpted because of a gap on the mold line… 😉
“Welcome to another tutorial with out fantastic painter Romain”
Without Romain?! Say it aint so! lol
Awesome! I love the look of these minis even if they are dirty, stinking Plague.
Right off the bat . . . I mean RIGHT off the bat, Romain has me laughing. “Qapla?” Really? We get a greeting in Klingon? Although if Qapla = “Success . . .” that almost seems a little superfluous. I mean when has Romain “failed” at a miniature?
It’s almost like when Leonard Nimoy wishes us to “live long and prosper.”
Well, Lord know YOU have, sir. 🙂
With a bit of highlighting and some washed the beast is starting to come to life!
Came beat watching a master at work.
can’t I’ll learn to spell one day? LOL
Thanks ! I’m glad you… well, came…
You guys are so nice ! Thanks… I really don’t think this is my best work, but you will be the judge of that in the end. Still, good enough for teaching.
can’t wait end result!
Excited to see how this turns out. I’ve always wanted a Giger style Tyranids force.
This is going to be interesting. As always Romain your commentary is informative and wonderfully comic.
This mini is Mantic in a nutshell. Great concept, superb sculpt, horrific mould lines.
They’re so detailed that they absolutely love washes; but using ink requires that you get rid of every last mould line, even for tabletop standard (the ink shows up any I’ve missed so starkly).
Mantic are moving to hard plastic and I hope they get it right – with their great rules they really could take over the world (of miniatures games) if the mini production matched up.
Anyway great tutorial – can’t wait to see part 2!
I’ve (with some help from other internet people) found what works for Mantic’s plastic. It’s a brass brush in short. If you use files on the mold lines they tend to “fur up” rather than reduce to powder and fall off (like a normal styrene mold line would). This fur is difficult to remove (knives tend to chase it about the model and some tends to be left hanging off sharp points. So I use a rotary file to reduce the line all around the figure (which is very quick) then give them a rough scrub with the brass brush… Read more »
I’ll have to try that ! Thanks ! 🙂
I use to remove the tiny bits resulting from scratching the mold line with acetone. Simply brush some on the scrapped moldline to smooth the mini. It won’t damage the mini, it just has enough teeth to remove the last bits of scrapped material.
Cheers,
That’s useful as well… but I can’t recommend using dangerous chemicals for that sort of thing, as the same results can be achieved in other ways, and some people around here have kids, and so on… Plus, that’s never cool to breathe in.
No to be recommended but really usefull. I understand that you can’t talk about it. It’s the same than use cigaret ashes with superglu to fil the gaps in the minis. 😀
… or human hair to do traces of goo, blood and drool…
The Plague Stage 1 is my favourite model of the year (I even said it in my survey!)
Though I found when I was painting (well, to be honest, drybrushing, not painting) mine. – http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2014/4/28/607276.JPG
I had managed to seemingly permanently stain every drybrush I used bright red. Even now, 5 months later, if I try using it on a model, it gains a red tinge plus whatever colour I was meaning to use.
Ah ! Well, it happens… Dry-Brush ruins brushes, that’s why we only use old brushes to do it. The hair will fork if teh paint is too wet, and some paint sticks if you’re not careful. Traces of paint on brushes may be the result of two things : not diluting enough (too much paint on the brush leading to residual pigments everywhere), or letting some paint go to the ferrule of the brush (too much paint on the brush resulting in paint going further up the brush than needed). Cleaning isn’t usually a problem… cold water does the trick.… Read more »
great stuff man, also really like the idea of it being front lit perhaps by a warning light, mussle flash or gun mounted torch. waiting to see how this one turns out!